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A lovely lunar eclipse. Luckily for other reasons that fund my holiday I am up all night. Before dawn today, the Earth’s shadow darkens the bright full moon and it was time to look up into the skies. It lasted an hour and a half, to go from dull to dusky brown to orange red, depending on how dusty your subdivision was. A lunar eclipse occurs when the full moon and sun oppose one another in space as the Earth in between shadows the entire moon surface, but some indirect sunlight hits the moon surface. The earth’s atmosphere filters out most of the sun’s blue light but the red frequencies light up the moon rocks. The moon is always safe to look at so you can gaze or use a telescope/binoculars. There is no visual danger. The outline of the Earth shadow is always curved because we are round, wrote Aristotle historically but without fully realizing we are a blue ball. Tonight was one of the longest lunar eclipses we have had so I hope you caught it in time. Chabot had a “Once in A Red Moon” all night viewing party with lunar themed music from 2200 last night. There have been 58 lunar eclipses this century and they continue to fascinate me. Mythologically they have eerie significances. The partial eclipse began at 0151 PST, totalling from 0252 until 0422, then partialling until 0524. I hope you were out there to catch it.
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When you buy a bottle of My Favorite Varietal in the World, you would be well served to check the vintage. Fear not, here’s a guide for you -
1976: Mediocre
1977: Usual
1978: Grand!
1979: Optimal
1980: Optimal
1982: Grand!
1983: Optimal
1984: Good
1985: Grand!
1986: Good
1987: Usual
1988: Optimal
1989: Grand!
1990: Exceptional
1991: Good.
1992: Mediocre
1993: Optimal
1994: Usual
1995: Grand!
1996: Exceptional!!
1997: Exceptional!!
1998: Grand!
1999: Grand!
2000: Exceptional!!
2001: Exceptional!!
2002: Mediocre
2003: Grand!
2004: Exceptional!!
2005: Grand!
2006 – Trick question. Not so fast. You have to oak age for two years to the Monday beforeyou release or sample.
If you’re new to Barolo world, stick with the Grand or Exceptional vin
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You would be considered mental if you were in Torino and did not pay homage to Peyrano Fabbrica (the Italian Willy Wonka) which is at Corso Moncalieri, 47 (cross streets via Duchessa Jolanda Angolo and via Principi d’Acaja; bus #18; 0900-1230 and 1500-1930 closed Sundays; 011-660-2202). Of the more than 60 varietals (note the word used), the one to try is giandujotti, an alchemic mixture of cioccolati and the round gentle hazelnut of Piemonte that makes Nutella taste like pulverized sawdust paste. You should also taste cialde (hazelnut wafers), Sicilian almonds (try with the Albarino), and caramelized puffed rice covered with pure dark chocolate. The store at Corso Vittorio Emanuelle II, 76 also has the pastry production line. Pick up some chocolate boxes, designed by Ettore Sotssass, Ricardo Dalisi or Alessandro Mendini. The old style shop on Via Andrea Doria, 2B is for tourists.
Say it again, slowly – tonde gentile nocciola.
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The last three notes (C, C, C) are the best.
Some ideas for stocking stuffers for friends going away on holiday:
Foodies know Davide Scabin likes to tease and play. At the hyperdesigned contemporary art museum in Rivoli (outside Torino) is the home of the glass enclosed Combal.Zero (with its funky website) which has a cult following for his out there food with weird names. Cyberegg is soft orange unfertilized yolk, vodka and caviar encased in a gelatin shell/cell. Virtual oyster is watermelon, salted and air dried roe (bottarga) and almond paste that tastes improbably like oyster (I have confirmation). Foie gras milk shake served in a VERY tall glass with a straw. The seating s very uncomfortable but he has a Michelin star so they won’t be updating soon. (Castello di Rivoli, Piazza Mafalda di Savoia; 011-39-011-956-52-25). For something more earthy, go to Caffe Groppi which also has a Michelin one-star. Belgian beer and cioccolati in a gorgeous gelee (Via Mameli, 20; 011-39-0321-711-54).
Maharani: 77 Berwick St, London W1V3PF. 0871-0757268 (tube: Oxofrd Circus)
Gopals of Soho: 12 Bateman St, London W1D 4AH. 0871-3328831 (tube: Tottenham Court road)
Chennai Dosa: 353 High Street North, Manor Park, E12 6PQ. 0871-0757314 (tube: East Ham)
Cochin: 111 High road, East Finchley, N2 8AG. 0871-14268823 (tube: East Finchley)
Masala Zone: 9 Marshall St, Soho, W1F 7ER. 0871-2238056 (tube: Oxford Circus)
Imli: 167-169 Wardour St, W1F 8WR. 0871-0751069 (tube: Tottenham Court road)
The Cinnamon Club: Old Westminster Library, Great Smith St, SW1P 3BU. 0845-166-4253 (tube: St. James’ Park)
Veeraswamy: 99-101 Regent St, W1B 4RS. 0871-3328569 (tube: Piccadilly Circus)
Benares: 12 Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. 0871-0757047 (tube: Green Park)
Chowki: 2-3 Denman St, W1D 7HA. 0871-3328062 (tube: Piccadilly Circus)
La Gola (Corso Matteotti 59, Torino; 011-511-1012) is near the Porta Susa stazione and not far from centro. Domenico Cairola (the owner) is a legendary Alpine climber from the fifties who lost his toes from frost bite after staying up all night below 30 to help an injured friend. Dom chooses the wines himself from vineyards too small to reach overseas fame. Do not even bother collecting corks. You won’t see the bottle ever again. Just get sloshed. 80 Euro for two, which includes antipasti, primi, secondi, dolci AND a bottle of wine. Not for people watching but the hoi polloi are not here.
La Prima dal 1979 Moreno (Cordo Unione Sovietica 244; 011-317-9657 ) features small plates. Too many small plates if you ask me. Good people watching. Pricey.
Torino is known for chocolates so you should immediately go to Peyrano (Corso Moncalieri 47; or Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 76); and Guido Gobino (Via Cagliari 15/B)
Trattoria Torricelli (Via Torricelli, 51;011-581-9508) is great to find long shift cops and solo diners. Known for its chestnut pasta and truffle sauce.
Casa Vicina (Via Massena 66, cross street is Corso Sommeriller, not far from Torricelli; 011-590-949) is elegant and very traditional. While modern, it is not lifeless. Expensive because it is inside the Hotel Boston.
Le Antiche Sere (Via Cenischia 9, near Corso Peschiera; 011-385-4347) is one of the last family owned traditional pimontese trattorie left. Great wine, limited choices but hardcord piemontese food. Bookings are a must. Only dinner is served and it is closed Sundays.
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Ten things you do not know about Torino:
Of the twenty regions in Italy, Piemonte is the most international and northwest. It is bounded by the Alps on three sides and thus France and Switzerland, beside the Italian regions of Liguria, Valle d’Aosta and Lombardy. Critical to accelerating the unification of Italia (sometimes called Piedmontization), it was initially part of the Kingdom of Sardinia, thanks to the Counts of Savoy annexing the territory as part of their empire building plan. After losing in war to Austria, Torino (the current capitol) became the capitol of reunited Italia. Paradoxically, with increasing geography, the capitol shifted to Firenze and now to Roma.
Piemonte is home to UNESCO world heritage sites such as the residences of the Royal Houses of Savoy and the Sacri Monti (di Cria, di Ghiffa and di Domodossola). Piemonte (foot of the mountain) itself bespeaks its anatomy at the foot of Monviso (Mount Vis) where the Po arises. Monviso is part of the Alps.
Piemonte is one of the greatest wine regions in the world and home to my favorites, Barolo and Barbaresco. It also gives rise to Barbera, Moscato and the lesser known varietals of Dolcetto, Freisa, Nebbiolo, Grignolino and Brachetto. Torino is home to Fiat cars and hosted the Olympics in 2006. Biella produces exquisite silks. This year, it hosted the Universiades, Olympics for students. Cuneo is the home of Ferrero’s chocolate factories.
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He has hurt his – Si e fatto male..
I’ve broken my – Ho rotto…
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It is here. And it is fantastic. (Early premiere in Hong Kong)
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