On the West front of Bath Abbey is a row of stone angels scrambling up a ladder to heaven. You will see circling acrobats, musicians, mimes and jugglers stripping down to leather thongs as they throw fire torches about. This is a good year to visit Bath as the new spa complex has been unveiled with a year round rooftop pool with skyline views but avoid the week ends. Guides at the Jane Austen Center will admit she rarely wrote anything in the town itself during her five years there, which means pleasure distracts stodgy genius. Bath is popular as Bath is convenient and only 90-115 mintues by rail southwest from Londontown. You can circle every photogenic square twice if you only have 48 hours. A natural choice for a getaway.
Start your tour at the baths founded by the Roman conquerors in 75 ACE and still fed by natural warm mineral springs. This is surrounded by museum of archeological finds including a Roman matron with the original Marge (Simpson) bouffant. Visit architect John Wood the Younger’s Royal Crescent of joined and classically Georgian townhomes. Jane Austen center has a “Where’s Waldo?” game offering the rundown of every city landmark Miss Austen ever visited. The Royal Photographic Society has some interesting shows. Check local listings.
Chef Blunos earned two Michelin stars at Lettonie which hybridizes Latvian and French rustic fare in an elegant Georgian manor. Bath Priory Restaurant serves rarefied food and reinvented fish and chips. Go on Friday. The tony Bath Bun Tea Room serves short bread bigger than a brick topped with chocolate and caramel and the coffee gateau wears a double layer of butter cream.
A short walk from downtown Bath, through lush Royal Victoria Park, the Bath Priory Hotel is the kind of Gothic manor that could have slid off the cover of a romance novel. Surrounded by four acres of gardens, it has recently been outfitted with a spa and gym, but the real mood is less hard-body than soft-edged; each guest room offers a cocoon of overstuffed chintz sofas. Closer to Bath’s museum quarter, the Queensberry Hotel approximates a Regency daydream, and the Royal Crescent Hotel lets you wake up to a view of the sweeping crescent itself, laid out like a stone tiara. Best bargains are Dukes’ Hotel and the Number 93 B&B, but if Bath’s aristocratic air rubs off, and you need one night of real opulence, head 11 miles southwest to Ston Easton Park: an antique-strewn Palladian mansion cum hotel that makes your average Merchant-Ivory set look threadbare.
More than 60 vendors at the Bartlett Street Antiques Centre hawk enough Staffordshire figurines to cock a snook at. For less breakable English souvenirs try George Bayntun, a Dickensian bookshop piled with morocco-bound Victorian novels, or Antique Textiles, where the heirloom paisley shawls and beaded bags swaddle you in kitsch.
Start at the Circus—a loop of town houses that glows in the morning sun. Make a pit stop at the nearby Museum of Costume and Assembly Rooms, where one voluminous ball gown resembles a Rose Bowl float. Walk through the center of town across the Pulteney Bridge to the Holburne Museum of Art and its collection of British portraits. Complete the period promenade at the Pump Room, where the Georgian fashionables once gathered to drink the curative waters. High tea is served next to a fitting statue of Beau Nash—the extreme, 18th-century dandy who became famous for dressing well and turning fun into the highest art. Then go shopping
Antique Textiles: 34 Belvedere, Lansdown Rd., +44 1225 310795.
Bartlett Street Antiques Centre: 5/10 Bartlett St., +44 1225 466689.
Bath Abbey: Orange Grove, +44 1225 422462.
George Bayntun: Manvers St., +44 1225 466500. www.georgebayntun.com.
Holburne Museum of Art: Great Pulteney St., +44 1225 466669.
The Jane Austen Centre: 40 Gay St., +44 1225 443000.
The Museum of Costume and Assembly Rooms: Bennett St., +44 1225 477789. www.museumofcostume.co.uk.
The Roman Baths: Abbey Churchyard, +44 1225 477785. www.romanbaths.co.uk.
Royal Photographic Society: The Octagon: Milsom St., +44 1225 462841.
Some digits -
Bath Bun Tea Room: 3 Lilliput Court, +44 1225 462413.
The Bath Priory Restaurant: Weston Rd., +44 1225 331922.
The Green Street Seafood Cafè: 6 Green St., +44 1225 448707.
Lettonie: 35 Kelston Rd., +44 1225 446676.
Sally Lunn’s: 4 North Parade Passage, +44 1225 461634.
The Pump Room: Stall St., +44 1225 444477. www.romanbaths.co.uk.
Some more digits
The Bath Priory Hotel: Weston Rd., +44 1225 331922, fax +44 1225 448276. $362 U.S. (including breakfast). www.thebathpriory.co.uk
Dukes’ Hotel: Great Pulteney St., +44 1225 787 960, fax +44 1225 787 961. $197 U.S. www.dukesbath.co.uk
Queensberry Hotel: Russel St., +44 1225 447928, fax +44 1225 446065. $213-355 U.S. www.thequeensberry.co.uk
The Royal Crescent Hotel: 16 Royal Crescent, +44 1225 823333, fax +44 1225 339401. $800-1,264 U.S. (not including breakfast). www.royalcrescent.co.uk
Ston Easton Park: Ston Easton, +441761 241631, fax +441761 241377. $292-387 (including breakfast). www.stoneaston.co.uk
Bath Tourist Information Centre is at Abbey Chambers, Abbey Churchyard, Bath BA1 1LY, +44 1225 477101, www.visitbath.co.uk; or you could contact the British Tourist Authority locally at 551 Fifth Avenue, Suite 701, New York, NY 10176; 800 462 2748 (U.S. and Canada), www.travelbritain.org.