Round Up

30 09 2005

Cinema
Good – The Constant Gardener
Bad – The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy
Fugly – Fever Pitch

Cellar
Red – 2003 Domaine Font de Michelle Châteauneuf du Pape (Rhone red)
White – 2003 Alain Coche-Bizouard Meursault L’Ormeau (White Burgundy)
Dessert – 2004 Domaine de Beaumalric Muscat de Beaumes de Venise
We had these in France earlier this month so I cannot guarantee availability in the Bay but you could try Mill Valley Market, Vintage Wines and Spirits, Plump Jack, Paul Marcus Wines, Draeger’s, K&L, Beltramo’s, Whole Foods, Bottle Barn, and The Wine House. I should like to suggest Wine Searcher and always patronize your local wine seller to keep him in business.

Cocktail: Fraises des Bois Royales
Mix 1 tbs grenadine with 0.25C fraises des bois liqueur (or Chambord) and chill in SubZero for one (1) hour before guests arive. Divide mixture into six (6) flutes. I got these lovelyones from Mikasa that everyone loves and are dishwasher upper drawer safe! Slowly pour in the champagne and serve. I used Zardetto Prosecco Brut Conegliano as it is plentiful in my garage and I am out of Seaview Brut as this quarter’s shipment is late! Seaview is a jolly every Sunday brunch sparkler that is usually easily accessible. Italian Prosecco (so redundant) is often confused with Dalmatian prosecco (a sweet sherry like wine from dried grapes). This is ridiculous. Prosecco, vrai, is a white grape variety grown in the Veneto region only (in Italy) and gives its name to the sparkler of origin. The grape is known in the conegaliano and valdobbiadene regions in northern Venice. A late ripener, it is used in dry sparkers (spumante) and semi sparklers (frizzante) with bitter aftertastes. Mix with peach juice (I prefer boiled apricot pulp) for a Bellini; or mix with cranberry juice and vodka for a Poinsettia (hmmm, shades of the archly common Cosmopolitan much?).





Week in Wine

29 09 2005

Where to sip specialty cocktails in the city

Absinthe Brasserie & Bar: 398 Hayes St. (at Gough), S.F.; (415) 551-1590.
– Drink to try: Ginger Rogers.

Aziza: 5800 Geary Blvd. (at 22nd Ave.), S.F.; (415) 752-2222.
– Drink to try: Meyer Lemon Basil Drop.

Coco500: 500 Brannan St. (at Fourth), S.F.; (415) 543-2222.
– Drink to try: Tamarindo.

El Dorado Kitchen: 405 First St. W. (at West Spain), Sonoma; (707) 996-3030.
– Drink to try: Peach Jalapeno.

Frisson: 244 Jackson St. (at Battery), S.F.; (415) 956-3004.
– Drink to try: Le Long Frisson.

Jack Falstaff: 598 Second St. (at Brannan), S.F.; (415) 836-9239.
– Drink to try: Lychee & Kombucha.

The Last Supper Club: 1199 Valencia St. (at 23rd St.), S.F.; (415) 695-1199.
– Drink to try: Limoncello Cooler.

Range: 842 Valencia St. (at 19th Street), S.F.; (415) 282-8283.
– Drink to try: Fickle Fox.

Slanted Door: 1 Ferry Building, No. 3, S.F.; (415) 861-8032.
– Drink to try: French 75.

Slow Club: 2501 Mariposa St. (at Hampshire), S.F.; (415) 241-9390.
– Drink to try: Blood Orange Cosmopolitan.

Town Hall: 342 Howard St. (at Fremont), S.F.; (415) 908-3900.
– Drink to try: Town Hall Cooler or Sazerac.

SUGGEST COCKTAILS

Temptation (from Range)

Coat the rim of a cocktail glass with sugar. Shake the 1.5 oz vodka, 0.5 oz raspberry liqueur and 1.5 lemon juice with ice in a mixing glass, then strain into the cocktail glass. Float the 0.25 ozsparkling wine on top.


Pomegranate Manhattan (from Frisson)

Pour 2 oz bourbon, 1 oz pomegranate nectar, 0.5 oz Cynar and 3 drops orange bitters over ice in a mixing glass, then strain into a cocktail glass, adding a splash of ginger ale for effervescence as you pour. Garnish with an orange twist.


Ginger Kaffir Limeade (from Slanted Door)

Run a piece of lime along the lip of a tumbler and then dip the rim into organic sugar spread on a plate. Fill a glass with ice. Add 1.5 lime juice, /75 oz ginger syrup, Cointreau splash and 2 oz kaffir lime vodka. Shake well and pour the entire contents into the tumbler. Garnish with the lime wedge.


California Viogniers

2004 Bonterra Vineyards Mendocino CountyViognier: $15
2004 Eberle Mill Road Vineyard Paso Robles Viognier: $18
2003 EXP Dunnigan Hills Viognier: $12
2004 Handley Cellars Dry Creek Valley Viognier: $19
2004 Incognito Lodi Viognier: $20
2004 Jewel Collection California Viognier: $10
2004 Mount Aukum Winery Fair Play Viognier: $22
2004 Pepperwood Grove California Viognier: $8
2004 Rosenblum Cellars Kathy’s Cuvee California Viognier: $15
2004 Turnbull Oakville Viognier: $30
2004 Vinum Cellars Vio Vista Verde Vnyd. San Benito County Viognier: $25
2004 Wattle Creek Alexander Valley Viognier: $25
2004 Wild Horse Central Coast Viognier: $20
2004 Windmill Estates CaliforniaViognier: $12


Pinot Noirs

2003 Cameron Hughes Lot 8 Monterey County Pinot Noir ($10)
2002 Castle Rock Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($10)
NV HRM Rex Goliath California Pinot Noir ($9)
2003 Jewel Collection California Pinot Noir ($9)
2004 Three Thieves Circle K Ranch California Pinot Noir ($10 for 1 liter)

Syrahs

2003 Beringer Founders’ Estate California Shiraz ($10)
2003 Jakes Fault California Shiraz ($10)
2003 McManis Family Vineyards California Syrah ($9)
2004 Ted the Mule Cotes du Ventoux Syrah-Grenache ($8)
2003 Tortoise Creek Vin de Pays d’Oc Syrah ($9)

Courtesy of my friend J, check out WineBlog watch





Get Digital

28 09 2005

I have received severe flak, via email and (worse) verbally since I returned from Paris with no documented evidence that I had a good time. The argument that nobody really cares much about your holiday photographs after a singular viewing session does not seem to carry much water. It seems as shocking to many, but not me, that I would be deficient in a digital camera. It is time to succumb. Today’s cameras boast quality and dorpping prices. Which one is right for me?

Digital Camera Basics

Digital cameras come in many shapes and sizes—from light ones that fit in your pocket to others that require some muscle to move around. In lieu of film, most use a CCD (charge-coupled device) to capture image data. The CCD is one of the keys to image quality—the higher the number of pixels, the higher the resolution. In other words, the more pixels you have, the bigger you’ll be able to print your photos without them breaking up into blocky blurs. Resolution is usually referred to in megapixels, or millions of pixels. A few years ago, $1,000 would buy you a state of the art one-megapixel camera, now you can buy an eight megapixel camera for under $650. Top of the line cameras offer six megapixels. How many pixels I need—and can afford—will be one of my big decisions when choosing a camera.

Some other cameras (typically digital SLRs) use another technology known as CMOS or complementary metal oxide semiconductor sensors. In the past, Then there’s the Foveon X3 sensor, which is currently only found in two Sigma digital SLRs and one upcoming Polaroid consumer-level camera. The X3 sensor is a triple layered CMOS sensor (one layer per primary color) that produces incredibly sharp images, equivalent to over 9 megapixels.

After images are captured, they’re saved to some type of removable media, such as a tiny Secure Digital card or, in rare cases, a mini CD-R disc. The higher quality photos, the more room they will take up, so I might be swapping these cards and discs out regularly in my Embassy Suite. Luckily, I can review the images on the camera’s LCD panel and delete right away.

To get the images onto my Dell PC, all cameras offer a USB connection. A few of the higher-end cameras use FireWire which is dramatically faster than USB (unless its USB 2.0 which is still an uncommon feature). Once they are on the Dell, I can use software like Apple’s iPhoto or Adobe’s Photoshop Elements to print, share, and organize your photos.

I am a moron and favor tiny point-and-shoot camera so I know I will quickly tire of a large digital camera’s heft and complexity. I am not going over budget – it is like buying a Ferrari and driving the speed limit. Digital cameras range in weight from 3.5 ounces for an ultra-compact to 1.3 pounds for a typical D-SLR body to a whopping 2.7 pounds for a full-size professional D-SLR body. The smallest cameras can be stuffed into your tiniest pocket, with the largest ones requiring a camera bag to carry them around. I do not want to be hampered by one (1) more thing when I travel but more weight means more features. The smallest cameras usually have a 2X or 3X lens and limited (if any) manual controls. A few of them have a fixed focal length and only digital zoom. On the other hand, the largest cameras most resemble the SLR-style film camera that professionals and serious hobbyists use. These offer full manual controls, and support for add-on flashes and—in the case of digital SLRs — add-on lenses.

Although they certainly get the most attention, more isn’t always better when it comes to pixels. We end up buying way more than they need. For instance, while an eight megapixel camera sounds cool, it’s overkill for almost everyone. My Dell can run the city of Dublin waterworks from my bedside.If your main task will be putting photos on the net for friends and fmaily to see (or on my Flicker account), or making 4×6-inch prints, a two megapixel camera is probably fine. If you make 5×7 prints, move up to a three megapixel. If you want to make 8×10 and larger prints, you’re going to want at least a four megapixel camera. The only people who really need five or more megapixel cameras are those making enormous prints, or professional photographers. This is never me but may be my dear friend P or K. Why restraint? The more pixels the camera has, the more nights I will be working for the ER and the less I will travel and actually use the camera. Its files will be considerably larger (a 2MP image will be about 800KB, while a 5MP image will be around 1.5MB), and will take up more space on my hard drive and removable media cards (I have to carry more cards, buy higher capacity (read: more expensive), or take fewer pictures). If you’re only going to make 4×6 prints, you might want a three-megapixel camera to allow for cropping. Photographers routinely take wide shots of their subjects to avoid slicing off an arm, foot, or forehead—then they crop away all but the most essential elements and enlarge what’s left. If you start with a two-megapixel image, you can’t spare many pixels without compromising image quality; with three or four million pixels, you can. Extra pixels likewise afford you more freedom to correct colors, retouch blemishes, and straighten crooked photos.

TIP: when checking specs, watch out for cameras that use interpolation to boost their pixel counts. Interpolation is a process in which the camera digitally enlarges a lower resolution photo by guessing, or interpolating, what the pixels would look like at a higher resolution and then adding them. The result is noise and artifacts in your photos. Make sure the resolution on the box is the native CCD resolution without interpolation. This is generally mentioned right away on most cameras. Keep an eye out for an “image enlargement” feature, which is the same thing.

How much zoom do I need. Camera zoom ratios are typically advertised in “X’s”. That’s just shows the ratio of the focal length. For example, a 35-105 mm lens works out to 3X. The larger the focal length, the larger the “X”. A camera with a fixed focal length lens (no optical zoom) will likely have faster startup time, and faster shooting speeds (since it does not need to focus the lens). Most of these cameras will have a digital zoom feature to make up for their lack of flexibility. However, digital zoom works by blowing up the center area of the field, which means your camera makes a larger image with the small amount of data. Picture quality suffers as a result. A camera with a 3X optical zoom lens works very well for most purposes. Generally, these cameras will have a focal length of 35-105 mm (in 35mm terms). In reality, the focal length is much smaller (e.g., 7.3 – 21.9 mm), as digital camera sensors are much smaller than film. I’m using the 35mm equivalent since it’s more familiar. If you are into wildlife or sports photography, consider a camera with a longer lens to catch the action far away: there are cameras with 5X, 6X, 8X, 10X, and even 12X optical zooms. Most of these lenses do not have an image stabilization feature to lessen the effects of “camera shake.” You need a very steady hand(buy a tripod) when using the camera at maximum telephoto. More and more cameras are offering image stabilization which helps reduce — but not eliminate — the camera shake issue. One way to ensure a sharp image is to boost the ISO sensitivity (if your camera lets you set it), but the image will have more “noise” than with lower ISO settings.

The maximum aperture range is also important, especially if you plan on taking shots where using the fastest shutter speed possible is desirable (like for sports or low light photography). The maximum aperture is the lowest F-number the camera can reach, which is a measure of how large the iris can open. That may seem contradictory but the lower the F-number, the more light the camera can let in. The more light, the faster the shutter speed you could use. Typically the maximum aperture varies depending on the focal length. For example, it could be F2.8 at wide-angle and F5.2 at telephoto. A small group of cameras (most notably the Panasonic FZ-series) have the same maximum aperture regardless of the focal length, thus making it ideal for low light and action shooting. If you do a lot of shooting in those situations, you’ll want something like F2.0 – F2.5 rather than F3.2 – F5.2.

While point-and-shoot cameras do the job most of the time, there are occasions where manual controls help you override the default settings and take a well-exposed picture. Lower cost digital cameras will usually be point-and-shoot. Aside from exposure compensation (which helps brighten or darken the photo), you typically won’t find any manual controls. More expensive cameras may offer control over shutter speed, aperture, white balance, color, and focus. The first two allow you to take lower light shots, as well as being creative with depth of field, like when you want the subject to be in focus, with a blurry background. Manual color control lets you adjust things like saturation and contrast. Manual white balance is very handy when the preset settings just don’t work in certain lighting conditions. You can shoot a white or gray card which becomes the correct “white” for the camera. Manual focus will let the photographer get a shot in focus that the camera can’t do automatically. For example, when the light levels are too low to focus correctly, you can set it yourself.

Movie recording is pretty much a gimmick, but it is an easy way to take short clips without investing in a camcorder. Some cameras limit your recording time to anywhere between 30 seconds and 10 minutes. Newer models will let you record until your memory card or disc is full, which results in longer movies (up to an hour in some cases). Movies are usually recorded at a resolution of 320 x 240, and are saved in AVI, MPEG, or QuickTime format. Cameras with “high end” movie modes usually record at 640 x 480, a few at 30 frames/second. Be warned that these cameras often require more expensive “high speed” memory cards. Some cameras record sound with movies, and others don’t. Pay close attention to whether or not a camera can use the zoom lens during filming. As a rule, if a camera records sound, you probably can’t use the zoom.

All cameras provide expandable memory of some sort, which is critical for the photographer on the go. If the memory card fills up, you just pop in another and you’re ready to keep shooting. An increasing number of cameras also have a small amount of built-in memory instead of bundling a memory card with the camera. In the early days of digital photography, cameras used either SmartMedia or CompactFlash cards. Today, you’ll see everything from CDs to Secure Digital—the small cards used in Palm devices, some cell phones, and all non-Sony digital camcorders. The card included with your camera is always ridiculously low in capacity, so you’ll probably want to buy a larger card right away; I call this the printer/toner principle – printers are cheap but buying toner serially will hemorrhage the bank. A 256MB card will set you back about $40.SmartMedia cards have gone the way of the Dodo bird, having been replaced by the new xD Picture card format. xD cards are small, limited in capacity to 512MB, and tend to be more expensive than other cards (save Memory Stick). Speaking of Memory Stick, Sony’s proprietary memory cards have topped out at 256MB (well, 128MB x 2), so Sony came up with two new formats: Memory Stick Pro (look just like regular Memory Sticks except for an increase in speed and capacity (up to 1GB) and they do not work in older cameras) and Memory Stick Duo cards (small cards that work in a select few Sony devices; they top out at 512MB). Secure Digital cards are fast becoming the tiny memory card of choice. They’re used in PDAs, cameras, camcorders, voice recorders, and more. They are available in capacities as large as 1GB. A similar card, known as the MultiMediaCard (MMC) usually works in cameras that support SD, but they’re slower and lower capacity, and thus not recommend. CompactFlash is the highest capacity memory card and still the most popular. You can buy CompactFlash cards in excess of 4GB (though these cost a small fortune). There are two types of CompactFlash cards: Type I and Type II. Type I cards are the standard-sized, original CompactFlash cards – they come as large as 2GB. Type II cards are slightly thicker, and are typically only supported on larger cameras. With that extra bulk, they are able to come in larger capacities – up to 8GB. The Microdrive, a tiny hard drive, is a Type II card. The Microdrive comes in 340MB, 512MB, 1GB, and 4GB capacities. Be sure to make sure your camera supports the Microdrive – some don’t, and others may not work with certain Microdrive models.

Sony is still selling cameras that use removable media such as CD-R/RW and floppy disks. Cameras that write to CDs store about 156MB per disc. CDs cost about $0.25 a piece. CD-based cameras are not Mac friendly. Floppy-based digital cameras give you just 1.4MB on which to store photos, so you can’t fit many photos on a disk but disks are practically free these days. Because of the inclusion of a floppy or CD mechanism , both formats mean a bulkier, slower, and more expensive camera than one that uses flash memory.

Digital cameras use two types of batteries: standard AA or proprietary lithium-ion. Lithium-ion batteries are almost always rechargeable, but quite often, the AA batteries included with cameras are throw-away alkalines. If that’s the case, it’s up to you to buy rechargeables. Although proprietary batteries often last longer than their AA counterparts, standard AA batteries offer a couple of advantages. For one, at roughly $8 for a set of four, they’re less expensive than proprietary batteries, which are often $50 or more. Another advantage is that if your rechargeables ever run out of juice, you can pick up a set of AA alkalines to get you through the day. Try that with your $50 battery! An AC adapter (sometimes included if your camera uses proprietary batteries) comes in handy when you’re transferring your photos to your computer, or using your camera in a studio environment. If the camera includes rechargeable AA batteries, you will generally get a charger, but not an AC adapter.

When you’re considering a camera take a close look at what else is in the box. If you’re a hardcore Photoshop user, you probably won’t care about bundled image-editing software, but beginning photographers often use the software included. In the past software has been pretty miserable, but it has improved in recent years. If you like the included software: great. If not, you’re not stuck with it — you can use any number of products.

Research most camera features online, but in the end there’s no substitute for putting the camera in your own hands. Are the controls well placed? Is the LCD visible in different lighting conditions? If you point the lens in different directions, does the LCD follow along smoothly? Take a few pictures – is there a big lag between the time you press the shutter release button and when the photo is taken? Pick a few favorite cameras and then try them in person to make the final decision.

Accessories

  • Power: Batteries. If your camera uses a proprietary battery, buy a spare. If your camera came with alkalines, buy a set or two of NiMH (nickel metal hydride) rechargeables, and a fast charger if one doesn’t come with your camera. Save the planet!
  • Larger memory cards: Whatever type of memory card you get with your camera, there’s definitely a larger one available. For two- and three-megapixel cameras, you’ll want at least 64MB. For higher resolution cameras, double that. Buy a few cards.
  • Tripod: Ever wonder how you can take good night photos or why your child’s dance recital didn’t come out. Your camera needs to be steady. There are millions of tripods out there, in all prices ranges from $20 to over $500. Buy one.
  • Add-on lenses: Many cameras support accessory (or conversion) lenses. You can get wide-angle, telephoto, or macro lenses that improve the capabilities of your camera. These lens often require an adapter (at additional cost) and make your camera a bit unwieldy. You will need to rely on the LCD for previewing pictures since the optical viewfinder will not be accurate. Accessory lenses usually cost more than $100.
  • Camera Case: Safely store it in a padded camera case. Larger cases (made for digital cameras) have room for your extra batteries and memory cards. A few cameras include a case, but the vast majority do not.

P recommended this helpful reviews section to use as one step in making your own decision about which camera is best for you. Another option is to ask for advice in Forum (but browse the messages because nearly everything has already been asked. P supplied me with a comprehensive website and given below is the summary of discovery:

Best Cameras under $400
* Canon PowerShort A520 – 4MP. 4X Zoom
* Canon PowerShot SD300 Digital ELPH – 3.2MP
* Fuji FinePix F10 – 6.3MP. 3X Zoom
* Kodak EasyShare DX7440 – 4MP. 4X Zoom
* Sony Cyber-shot DSC-P200 – 7.2MP. 4X Zoom
* Sony Cyber-shot DSC-S90 – 4MP. 3X Zoom

Best Cameras $401-$650
* Canon PowerShot G6 – 7MP. 4X Zoom
* Canon PowerShot S2 IS – 12X Zoom
* Canon PowerShot SD550 Digital ELPH – 7.1 MP. 3X Zoom
* Konica Minolta DiMAGE A200 – 8MP. 7X Zoom
* Nikon D50 – 6.1MP.
* Olympus C-7070 Wide Zoom – 7.1MP. 4X Zoom
* Panasonic Lumix DMC-FX9 – 6MP. 3X Zoom
* Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ5 – 12X Zoom. 5MP
* Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ30 – 12X Zoom
* Sony Cyber-shot DSC-V3 – 7MP. 4X Zoom

Best Cameras $651-$1000
* Canon Digital Rebel XT
* Nikon Coolpix 8400 – 8MP

Best Camera over $1001
* Canon EOS-2D – 8MP
* Konica Minolta Maxxum 7D
* Nikon D70S





Eiffel European

27 09 2005

Lame pun in the title I agree and so cliche, as is La Tour Eiffel. After we took our Big Bus Tour of the smog-ridden city (I am seriously concerned about granular pharyngitis which has affected me seriously after Portland, Las Vegas and Mumbai) to get the lay of the land, we walked down the Champs Elysees across the Pont L’Alma to the Tour Eiffel which we hit exactly at 2100 when the strobe lights went off. A gaggle of tourists descends from overpacked overwrought tourmobiles very early in the morning and then again just before supper. Late at night is best but there are always lines. Visitors may climb the stairs or take the elevators to go up the Eiffel Tower.

The stairs are open to the public and go up to the second floor (115 meters). Three elevators (north, west and east pillars) go up to the first and second floors. Only one or two will be in service on any given day due to maintenance and security reasons. To reach the top of the Tower (276 meters), visitors must take another elevator from the second floor. During the peak visitor seasons, be forewarned that the wait may be consequential.

Head to the East Pillar (most tourists see the North Pillar and logically gravitate there so the lines are longer; this is akin to always touring a museum or Disney park counterclockwise because almost all children enter a grocery store or attraction clockwise) and buy your ticket for the highest level. You will dock at the first level (premier etage) and queue up again. Unlike London, Parisiennes care not a whit about queueing and nor do Indian tourists. I got jostled thoroughly and did not appreciate it.

On the Ground Floor (this is the first floor, Americain), you see the original massive hydraulic machinery designed by Gustave Eiffel that has since been restored and computerized but still in use today. Access to the machinery is not always open to the public.

On the First Floor is a section of the Spiral Staircase used by Mr. Eiffel to get to his top floor office. Segments were very successfully sold at an international auction. In the center of a transparent bubble, mounted on one of the Tour’s beams, interactive videos, video glasses and light shows explain the technical means used to build the monument and the work involved in protecting the iron with paint. The different colors of the Tour since construction are visible within. if you look up, you can see wax steeple painters perched on a beam, replicas of workers who paint the Tour every seven (7) years. All around the circular gallery, panoramic indicators present the monuments and sites visible below in the city of Paris. Altitude 95 and le Jules Verne are expensive restaurants located on this floor.

On the Top Floor is a representation of Mr. Eiffel’s office. The wax characters include Mr. Eiffel, his daughter Claire and the American inventor, Mr. Thomas Edison. You can see the phonograph he offed Mr. Eiffel. a 360 degree photo panoramic of Paris makes it easy to identify major Parisian land marks. Amusing view point indicators inform of direction and distance from major great cities in the world. Dublin was forsake for San Francisco – my heart will go on.

The actual Tower Illuminations were inaugurated on December 31, 1985. There are 335 projectors from 150 to 1000 watts, equipped with sodium lamps shooting their beams upward from the inside of the scaffolding structure. The beacon sent out its beams (four) at midnight on December 31, 1999 for the first time. The beacon is four marine tupe motorized projectors operated by an automatically piloted computer program that assures their rotation sweep of 90 degrees and a perfect synchronization of the double light beams, diametrically opposite to the other, pivoting around 360 degrees. Each projector is equipped with a Xe-6000 watt high intensity discharge lamp, many times stronger than the headlights on my Acura TL. When visibility is ideal, the beacon is seen from 160 miles away. It is activated each evening when the Tour lights up and shuts down when the Tour does. For the first day of Summer and the Celebrtation of Music, the Tour displayed its new glittering lights and sparkles (strobes) each hour on the hour for ten minutes from dusk until 0200. If you have seizures, stay away during these times.





Random Paris

26 09 2005

* Tour Eiffel vendors sell cheap stuff at high prices. Avoid at any cost.
* Choose specifically and wisely (exactly) at bistrot. They will give you the most expensive item corresponding to your request. If you ask for a coffee, be assured you’ll get the largest size. It is absolutely annoying
* If you ask for water, you will be brought a bottle of sparkling or still water and it will add to the bill significantly. Ask specifically for carafe d’eau. It is free and refilled.
* Nearly all the restaurants on the Elysian Fields are tourist traps. If they advertise in English, please skip it entirely.
* Buy drinks, food, bread and ehad to the Luxembourg Garden (which is like Bryant Park in NYC) or walk along the Seine and enjoy the Ile de la cite.
* A “French breakfast” is a croissant, a pad of butter, 3oz of hot chocolate, 3 oz of OJ and a small baguette. It is E30 and not nourishing at all. Coffee is absolutely ridiculously expensive, and you won’t get SBUX size megacups for your euro
* Newsflash: besides the Gioconda, there is other art in the Musee du Louvre which is overpriced, overrated and too big by half. Audioguide is a must.
* If you are short of time, the Trianons at the Palais de Versailles are not worth it. Keep an open mind when you see the State Rooms – remember the Sun King did not have very good taste in fabric or color, and items are very garish. Vendors will sell you nonsense outside.
* Seine cruises are good ideas in theory. There are mooning schoolkids on the banks, the water is dirty and the boats are crowded. However at twilight, all is wondrous.
* Everybody else smokes.





Elysian Fields

25 09 2005

See the Arc de Triomphe and walk on. If you want haute couture, go to Rue du Faubourg. If you want clubbing, go to the Left Bank, Marais in the 3rd or 4th Arr., or Rue Oberkampf. For Christmas Lights, Bastille Day and parades, try the Champs Elysees but otherwise, it is just a street and Michigan Avenue in Chicago is simply much more fun. Plus I can actually afford to buy things in Chicago bigger than a microscopic Chanel hand bag.

  • I managed to grab a bite at the Brioche Doree where the rude counterpeasant spontaneously decided to toast my panino and charge me more. It is very upsetting when they do that. You will however concede that the most yummy people are walking up and down the Elysian Fields.
  • Nearly all of the toilets need exact Eurocents so keep your coin bag handy.
  • “Special clubs” means they are bars where the prositutes are tending bar and waiting tables. It is not for children with Down syndrome as one quickly discovers. Also, none of the Moulin Rouge dancers looks remotely like Nicole Kidman. Many bubbles bursting perhaps all at once.




Chateau Versailles

24 09 2005

Buy the Versailles Passport at any train station (Gare). You can also buy it at the Tourist Desk in the Virgin Megastore in the Louvre. This is a good deal as it includes roundtrip RER fare, fast track entry to the chateau, private entrance (no lines) to the gardens and audio guide. We took the Metro to Gare d’Asterlitz from where the Vick or Vero lines (remember the names) take you to the terminus at Rive Gauche Palais de Versailles. It’s a small brisk walk to the entrance of the Chateau grounds. Do the State Rooms when it is hot. Owing to the drought, the musical fountains come on only between 1030 and 1200 and then again at 1530. Be warned, food on the groudns is very expensive and really poorly made. There are only two (2) toilets, both most remarkably messy. It is cooler and clearer (air quality) than Paris. Of course, it rains a lot. Some other key points to remember:

  • Skip the Mini train. It is a slow moving tram like we have at Universal Studios in Hollywood filled with fat American tourists (What? no Japanese slurs today?) and screaming spoilt children, and takes you to see the Trianon Gardens and Grand Canal. The 5 euros are better spent renting a quaint bicycle near the Grand Canal and riding through the gradens behind the Chateau. Some think the garden is too extensive to cover by foot. My travel companions whined constantly till I thought my head was going to explode. You should also canoe the Grand Canal. I wish I were skilled in that.
  • Your passport covers the entrance to the State Rooms, Trianons and all gardens (free). Individual entries are expensive. If on a budget, skip the Chateau and see the gardens (they are free). Visit on a weekday after 1530. Fares are reduced on Sundays but you will also lose your sanity. You really want to prepare yourself for the long line-ups if you are not aware of everything.
  • The Hall of Mirrors is being renovated by Vinci and are closed this week. Probably the most famous room is The Hall of Mirrors which is lit by 17 tall windows matched by 17 mirrors that reflect the light. This well lit hall makes the chandellers sparkle and with all the gold and colorful paintings, it’s spectacular. The Hall of Mirrors was used as a passage way, each day the courtiers would wait here for the King and the royal famly in procession on the way to mass. It was also the setting for ambassadors and for state audiences. This hall is most noteable for hosting the proclamation of the German Empire on Januray 18th, 1871 and the signing of the Treaty of Versaille on June 28th 1919, which put an end to WWI
  • Interestingly, you will see a lot of the bedrooms (King, Monsignor, Queen, Dauphine, etc.) and it is striing how small the beds are. They are certainly not king size and this is intriguing. Were they all dwarves (or whatever we are calling midgets nowadays)?
  • Owing to the drought, things are not as green as I expected. Also, everyone is energy efficient except Americans so it is very very hot and musty indoors. I felt like I was in several antique stores in Northwest Indiana at times. Definitely take a poncho as you will tire of holding up the umbrella. Did I mention there is a lot of walking? The rain makes it depressingly dark and you cannot appreciate the blossoms. However, it is needed for the verdure so you cannot win every time.
  • Versailles is closed on Monday. Friday is the busiest day. Versailles is so large and filled with so many gilded, marbled rooms with wall-sized art and people-sized sculptures, it’s overwhelming. Do not forget to look up, the ceilings are filled with paintings and frescoes that will astound you. There are more than 2,000 windows, 700 rooms, 1,250 fireplaces and 67 staircases. Not all the rooms are open to the public, many are used as government buildings. During the French Revolution, most of the furnishings were torn down and scattered around the world, but much has been returned to Versailles to rivel any palace in the world. A map is your best friend, instead of wandering aimlessly as I did, have a plan, that way you will make note of the important objects in each room.
  • The Basin of Apollo is my favorite fountain (they are all over the place as is stunning statuary). Of the original 1400 fountains, only 607 are still working. Apollo is the largest and is quadrilobate. In the center is Apollo with four steads drawing the sun chariot from the sea on its journey across to the sky. It was created in 1671 for Louis XIII. Ar one timegilded, it shines well in the sun. Originally the Marly waterworks carried water from the Seine to Versailles via the Louveciennes aqueduct.
  • The Grand Canal is a shiny mirror basking between symmetric rows of carefully pruned tall trees. It was begun in 1667 and completed in 1680. An amazing flotilla once sailed along this canal. It consisted of various small-scale reproductions of ships and gondolas for the Court to sail in. The King brought the gondolas from Venice and there is a spot called Little Venice even today. The Grand Canal is 5,118 feet long and 394 feet wide, and you can rent a boat to paddle around the canal and pretend you are one of the King’s Court. 20 Euro for an hour.
  • The Small Trianon is a whole other section – I guess the coach section of the Versaille complex, with just a few somewhat less dazzling buildings including The Queen’s Cottage. Here you will also find a some lovely gardens in a more natural setting. Le hameau de Marie-Antoinette, a play-village and farm built in 1783 for Louis XVI’s queen to indulge the fashionable Rousseau-inspired fantasy of returning to the natural life.
  • Interestingly, the Latona fountain (frogs!) near the Chateau inspired my favorite Bucingham Fountain in Grant Park, Chicago, so I had a special place in my heart for it. Advertising it as Musical Fountains had many Japanese tourists assume Bellagio like orchestrations. Umm, not really.

Chateau Versailles
Tel: 01 30 837788





Musee Louvre

23 09 2005

The Louvre is the world’s largest palace and museum. It works as a museum but not as a palace (for me). You enter through I.M. Pei’s controversial 69 foot high glass pyramid after lax security checks the poncho covering everything else in my multizippered backpack. The glass pyramid is like askylight over the underground reception-ticketing-shop area. The lines are thus invisible. Monday is the worst day to go. Wednesdays are best as it is open late (until 2100) whereas other evenings it may close as early as 1730. Strongly recommend obtaining advance tickets at the Virgin Megastore at the Carrousel du Louvre, 99 Rue de Rivoli; then stop off at the information desk (under the Pyramid) to pick up a map of the museum for navigation the next day. Free entry on the first Sunday every month. Audio Guides are available for 5 euros, exact change only.

Turn up at 0845 the next day at the Porte des Lions (south side of the museum) between the Pont Royal and the Pont du Carrousel (not on Fridays, when it is clsoed). It is the closest entrance to the Salle des Etats. Travel light or you will need to drop off bags in the cloak room.I got in as soon as it opened and headed straight to the new Mona Lisa room via the Denon entrance (there are three entrances, Denon, Richelieu and Sully, and multiple floors) which is the least crowded entrance. Signs clearly mark how to get there before the Japanese tourists who have this genetic tendency to photograph everything (including a Parisian public toilet, I am not making this up) from every possible angle. One day, when I go to Tokyo, I want to see these vapid collections in a little neat Japanese home and take pictures myself. La Jioconda was alone, waiting for me. If you get there any time after 1100, you will get only a long distance view of the enigmatic smile. I spent nearly the entire day here and it was most enjoyable. There is a food court for the weary and it is attended by perhaps the rudest waitstaff, which can be quite challenging in Paris. If you want to see just the criticals, dash to the armless Venus de Milo, then onto pursuit of Winged Victory (the headless statue from 200 BC discovered at Samothrace) and David’s Coronation of Napoleon. Everyone has their own list. Regrettably, the Asian section is closed this week (nobody told us this at the entranceway) and the Masterpieces of Islamic Art exhibit is simply on loan from the NY Met so skip it entirely.

So where did all these paintings come from? The kings of France, notably François I and Louis XIV, acquired many of them, and others were willed to or purchased by the state. Many contributed by Napoleon were taken from reluctant donors: The church was one especially heavy and unwilling giver. Much of Napoleon’s plunder had to be returned, though France hasn’t yet seen its way clear to giving back all the booty.

The collections are divided into seven departments: Egyptian Antiquities; Oriental Antiquities; Greek, Etruscan, and Roman Antiquities; Sculpture; Painting; Decorative Arts; and Graphic Arts. A number of galleries, devoted to Italian paintings, Roman glass and bronzes, Oriental antiquities, and Egyptian antiquities, were opened in 1997 and 1998. If you don’t have to do Paris in a day, you might want to visit several times, concentrating on different collections or schools of painting. Take a guided tour if you are short on time.

Acquired by François I to hang above his bathtub, Leonardo’s La Gioconda (Mona Lisa) has been the source of legend for centuries. Note the bulletproof glass: The world’s most famous painting was stolen in 1911 and found in Florence in 1913. At first, both the poet Guillaume Apollinaire and Picasso were suspected, but it was discovered in the possession of a former Louvre employee, who’d apparently carried it out under his overcoat. Two centuries after its arrival at the Louvre, the Mona Lisa in 2003 was assigned a new gallery of her own. Less well known (but to us even more enchanting) are Leonardo’s Virgin and Child with St. Anne and the Virgin of the Rocks. After paying your respects to the “smiling one,” allow time to see some French works stretching from the Richelieu wing through the entire Sully wing and even overflowing into the Denon wing. It’s all here: Watteau’s Gilles with the mysterious boy in a clown suit staring at you; Fragonard’s and Boucher’s rococo renderings of the aristocracy; and the greatest masterpieces of David, including his stellar 1785 The Oath of the Horatii and the vast and vivid Coronation of Napoleon. Only Florence’s Uffizi rivals the Denon wing for its Italian Renaissance collection — everything from Raphael’s Portrait of Balthazar Castiglione to Titian’s Man with a Glove. Veronese’s gigantic Wedding Feast at Cana, a romp of Viennese high society in the 1500s, occupies an entire wall (that’s Paolo himself playing the cello).

Of the Greek and Roman antiquities, the most notable collections, aside from the Venus de Milo and Winged Victory, are fragments of a Parthenon frieze (in the Denon wing). In Renaissance sculpture, you’ll see Michelangelo’s Esclaves (Slaves), originally intended for the tomb of Julius II but sold into other bondage. The Denon wing houses masterpieces like Ingres’s The Turkish Bath; the Botticelli frescoes from the Villa Lemmi; Raphael’s La Belle Jardinière; and Titian’s Open Air Concert. The Sully wing is also filled with old masters, like Boucher’s Diana Resting After Her Bath and Fragonard’s Bathers.

The Richelieu wing reopened in 1993 after lying empty for years. It houses northern European and French paintings, along with decorative arts, sculpture, Oriental antiquities (a rich collection of Islamic art), and the Napoleon III salons. One of its galleries displays 21 works Rubens painted in a space of only 2 years for Marie de Médicis’s Palais de Luxembourg. The masterpieces here include Dürer’s Self-Portrait, Van Dyck’s Portrait of Charles I of England, and Holbein the Younger’s Portrait of Erasmus of Rotterdam.

When you get tired, take tea at Café Marly in the Cour Napoleon. This cafe overlooks the glass pyramid and offers coffees, pastries (by Paris’s legendary pastry-maker, Lenôtre), salads, sandwiches, and simple platters. That can get crowded so head to the Premier Etage caffe with its own terrazzo: same items, same prices, less tourists. There is a hideously overpriced Louvre gift shop – I picked up an official Louvre guide book chockful of pictures and am using my Louvre entry ticket as a bookmark. How terribly jejune!

Musee du Louvre
99, rue de Rivoli (rue du Louvre), Paris 75001
1st arr
+33 1 40 20 51 51
Metro: Palais Royal Musee du Louvre
Entry reduced after 1500. Free for children under 18. MasterCard.





Week in Wine

22 09 2005

Wine blogs in Italian

Aristide
The Wineblog.net
Pecoranera
Paperogiallo
Tirebouchon
Di Vino & Cibo
Vinoteca Online
Puiatti Wine Blog

Russian River Valley Pinot Noirs

2003 Alderbrook Russian River Valley Pinot Noir: $24
2003 Bearboat Russian River Valley Pinot Noir: $20
2003 De Loach Russian River Valley Pinot Noir: $18
2002 Forchini Proprietor’s Reserve RRV Pinot Noir: $22
2003 Fritz Russian River Valley Pinot Noir: $30
2003 Harvest Moon Vineyards & Winery RRV Pinot Noir: $18
2003 J Russian River Valley Pinot Noir: $28
2002 Russian Hill Estate Vineyards RRV Pinot Noir: $30





Garden Party

21 09 2005

Finally, the garden is complete and ready for a garden party! 

INGRESSO

  • Pyrus Calleryana Bradford (ornamental pear; white; spring)
    • New Bradford Pear
    • better branching habit more resistant to wind damage
    • profusion of white blossoms in spring
    • glossy and disease resistant
    • leaves change from orange to purplish red in the fall
    • height of 35′ and width of 30′
    • sunny well drained site
  • Buxus M Japonica Green Beauty japanese boxwood
    • compact texture and round appearance
    • nice background for annuals
    • pleasing informal shrub
    • often clipped as low or medium hedge
    • shaped in globes, tiers or pyramids
    • good for renaissance type gardens
    • compact, slow growing, hardy
    • grows to 4-6 feet and as wide if not contained
    • small shiny 0.5 – 1″ round tipped leaves
    • bright green in summer; brown or bronze in winter; inconspicuous flowers
    • clip down in fall or late winter before heat arrives to prevent browning
  • Salvia leucantha mexican bush sage purple summerfall
    • soft fuzzy flowers top the most ornamental of all Salvias
    • sturdy grower with good form
    • attracts lovely hummingbirds
    • blooms from mid to late summer until frost when it will die back to the ground
    • cut back to the ground once a year in the fall
  • Penstemon gloxinioides garden penstemon assorted; summer
    • perennial bloomer for several months
    • great colors
    • full sun
    • grows to 2 feet high by 3 feet wide
  • Agapanthus “Peter Pan” Dwarf Lily of the Nile blue; spring
    • native to South Africa
    • grown for dark clossy strap shaped leaves that arch gracefully
    • flowers borne on erect stems 3 feet or taller
    • good background plants or edging a fence, driveway or wall
    • thrive on neglect and naturalize readily
    • excellent tub and container specimens
    • used in cut flower arrangements
    • remains evergreen in warmer climates
  • Platanus acerifolia London Planetree deciduous
    • cross between P orientalis and P occidentalis
    • large deciduous tree up to 70′ wide and 80′ tall
    • spread matches height but pyramidal in youth
    • more widespreading with age
    • shape is rounded
    • branching is upright and spreading
    • sumemr foliage with alternate simple leaves, 6 to 7″ long and 10″ wide; 3- 5 obed with sparingly or coarsely tooted margins. shape is overall maple like with medium to dark green leaf color turning yellow brown in autumn
    • monoecious flowers bloom in April but not ornamentally important
    • ornamentally attractive bark exfoliates in plates, revealing creamy yellow inner bark
  • Ligustrum japonicum texanum Japanese Privet evergreen
    • used as screen, accent, hedge, container or planter, small evergreen shrub or tree
    • white and showy flowers in spring and summer
    • needs full sun or part shade
    • when clipping into hedge keep top narrower than bottom as could seed into surrounding landscapes

FONTANA

  • Escallonia ‘Compakta” Newport dwarf deep pink; red summer fall
    • evergreen shrubs and small trees native to South America
    • 5-8 feet tall with tender flowers in summer, autumn and early winter!
    • tiny leaves with abundant colorful small flowers
    • tolerant of wind and salty spray
    • glossy green leaves emit pleasant fragrance when crushed
    • lovely crimson blossoms
  • Coleonema pulchellum Sunset Gold pink Breath of Heaven pink winter spring
    • fine light green foliage resembling heather
    • delicate texture with profusion of tiny pink flowers
    • grows to 5 feet and needs good drainage
    • full sun exposure needed
  • Lycianthes rantonnei Paraguay Night Shade, Blue Potato Bushstd violet bue spring summer
    • semi evergreen but needs some frost protection
    • freezes to the ground in winter and restarts in spring
    • very good heat toelrance and needs full sun
    • from Paraguay and Brazil
    • clusters of deep biolet blue flowers with a yellow center
  • Loropetalum chinense Plum Delight evergreen
    • burgundy leafed Chinese Fringe flower
    • semi evergreen perennial used as large border plant or specimen shrub
    • small vivid pink tassel flowers open along matured branches in spring or early summer with light flush in fall
    • burgundy leaf varieties turn green during hot summer months but regain color in cooler autumn night time temperatures
  • Olea europaea “Swan Hill” olive
    • heat resistant olive from Mediterranean basin needing moderate water and full sun, hardy and in cultivation for millennia
    • olives can be pressed when ripe (black, as opposed to green, unripe) to extract oil. Unprocessed oilives stain pavements and can generally create a mess. Many are allergic to olive pollen (or leaf contact)
    • lancolate leaves are narrow, opposite to 3″ long, stiff and gray green on top, lighter n the underside
    • axillary clusters of small creamy white flowers bloom in spring and are allergenic
    • attractive trunk is gray, gnarled bumpy and contorted
  • Azalea formosa; various spring
    • southern Indian or Indica group of spring blooming with evergreen foliage
    • upright growth habit for a good highlight area
    • reddish purple single 3″ diameter flowers in the spring flowering shrub

PESCINA

  • Coleonema pulchellum Sunset Gold pink Breath of Heaven pink winter spring
    • fine light green foliage resembling heather
    • delicate texture with profusion of tiny pink flowers
    • grows to 5 feet and needs good drainage
    • full sun exposure needed
  • Hemerocallis Dwarf hybrid Day Lily yellow summer
    • abundant flowers open over long period of time
    • perennial flower border, garden centerpiece or brighten corner
    • quite large cluster in few years up to 400 per seasons
    • blooms for 30-40 days between early and late summer
  • Eriobotrya deflexa multi, Bronze Loquat white spring
    • alternative to more common Japanese Loquat
    • striking red emerging foliage and compact form
    • best fruit and form when grown in full sun
    • can tolerate partial shade and well drained soils
  • Thuja occidentalis “Emerald Green” American Arborvitae evergeen’
    • native to northeastern North America
    • scale-leaved evergreen medium size tree giving instant privacy
    • conical shape, dense and compact may be single or multitrunked
    • small scale like leaves overlap forming flattened rope-like shoots
    • green to dark green branchlets in horizontal planes or sprays
    • autumn discolors to yellowish green and even brown
  • Buddleja davidii Butterfly Bush Lilac; midsummer
    • deciduous to semievergreen shrub with weeping form
    • opposite lance shaped gray green leaves on long arching stems
    • tiny flowers attract butterflies
    • native to northwestern China and Japan
  • Nepeta mussinii Blue Wonder Persian Catmint blue spring; summer
    • drought and heat resistant
    • aromatic herb with fragrant flowers that attract butterflies
  • Ceanothus concha Wild Lilac dark blue spring
    • one of the oldest and best hybrid ceanothus
    • medium shrub
    • depe blue flowers, drought toelrant
  • Verbena peruviana Purple sand purple, summer
    • very low grower, perfect for sunny rock wall
    • grows in the wild at the base of the Argentine cactus tree
    • tiny leaves and smothered with brilliant true red flowers from spring to summer

PIAZZA

  • Hydrangea macrophylla Garden hydrangea, various summer
  • Rosa popcorn white spring summer
  • Camellia h shishi gashira rose red spring
  • Zantedeschia aethiopica dwarf common calia white; spring
  • Clytostoma callistegioides violet trumpet vines volet. summer

PAVILION

  • Xylosma compacta evergreen
  • Pittosporum t wheeler’s dwarf evergreen
  • Parthenocissus quinquefolia virginia creepr decisuoud
  • Syringa vulgaris comon lilac lavender spring
  • Viburnum t spring bouquet laurstinus white. winter
  • Lagerstroemia india st crape myrtle summer
  • Solanum jaxminoides white; all seasons
  • Nadina domestica compacta heavenly bamboo evergreen
  • Phoenix canariensis canary island date palm evergreen




Notre Dame

20 09 2005

The Cathedrale de Notre Dame de Paris has been scrubbed and restored. It is closer to the ground than the Tour Eiffel but the view is spectacular and you are not drenched with tourists. This is simply the center of France: a spot at the far end of place du Parvis (in front of the cathedral) has a circular plaque that marks Kilometre Zero.

The cathedral’s sits on the banks of the Seine. Founded in the 12th century by Maurice de Sully, bishop of Paris, Notre-Dame has grown over the years, changing as Paris has changed, often falling victim to whims of taste. Its flying buttresses (the external side supports, giving the massive interior a sense of weightlessness) were rebuilt in 1330. Though many disagree, we feel Notre-Dame is more interesting outside than in, I could not get enough of the inside. I am not particularly religious but it is a little too overwhelming inside! Una furtiva lacrima, seriously.
You will want to walk all around it to fully appreciate the stone. Cross over the pont au Double to the Left Bank and view it from the quay. Watch out for the annoying gipsies in the place du Parvis. It was fun to feed the twittering sparrows unboiled rice: they flitter and flit out of your arms. It is quite ticklish indeed. Try to time your visit around the 1830 mass: the children’s choir will bring tears to your eyes – if not, you should be an honorary gargoyle. Do not miss the pealing of the bells.

The histories of Paris and Notre-Dame are inseparable. Many prayed here before going off to fight in the Crusades. The revolutionaries who destroyed the Galerie des Rois and converted the building into a secular temple didn’t spare “Our Lady of Paris.” Later, Napoleon crowned himself emperor here, yanking the crown out of Pius VII’s hands and placing it on his own head before crowning his Josephine empress. But carelessness, vandalism, embellishments, and wars of religion had already demolished much of the previously existing structure. The cathedral was once scheduled for demolition, but, because of the popularity of Victor Hugo’s Hunchback of Notre-Dame and the revival of interest in the Gothic period, a movement mushroomed to restore the cathedral to its original glory. The task was completed under Viollet-le-Duc, an architectural genius. The houses of old Paris used to crowd in on Notre-Dame, but during his redesign of the city, Baron Haussmann ordered them torn down to show the cathedral to its best advantage from the parvis. This is the best vantage for seeing the three sculpted 13th-century portals (the Virgin, the Last Judgment, and St. Anne).

On the left, the Portal of the Virgin depicts the signs of the zodiac and the coronation of the Virgin, an association found in dozens of medieval churches. The restored central Portal of the Last Judgment depicts three levels: the first shows Vices and Virtues; the second, Christ and his Apostles; and above that, Christ in triumph after the Resurrection. The portal is a close illustration of the Gospel according to Matthew. Over it is the remarkable west rose window, 9.5m (31 ft.) wide, forming a showcase for a statue of the Virgin and Child. On the far right is the Portal of St. Anne, depicting scenes like the Virgin enthroned with Child; it’s Notre-Dame’s best-preserved and most perfect piece of sculpture. Equally interesting (though often missed) is the Portal of the Cloisters (around on the left), with its dour-faced 13th-century Virgin, a survivor among the figures that originally adorned the facade. (Alas, the Child she’s holding has been decapitated.) Finally, on the Seine side of Notre-Dame, the Portal of St. Stephen traces that saint’s martyrdom.

If possible, see Notre-Dame at sunset. Inside, of the three giant medallions warming the austere cathedral, the north rose window in the transept, from the mid-13th century, is best. The main body of the church is typically Gothic, with slender, graceful columns. In the choir, a stone-carved screen from the early 14th century depicts such biblical scenes as the Last Supper. Near the altar stands the 14th-century Virgin and Child, highly venerated among Paris’s faithful. In the treasuryare displayed vestments and gold objects, including crowns. Exhibited are a cross presented to Haile Selassie, former emperor of Ethiopia, and a reliquary given by Napoleon. Notre-Dame is especially proud of its relic of the True Cross and the Crown of Thorns. Part of the front facade is still under construction. Small caffes around the place. Lots of lame touristy souvenirs make me gag.

To visit the gargoyles immortalized by Hugo, you have to scale steps leading to the twin towersrising to a height of 68m (223 ft.). They let you in 20 at a time. 8 Euros. MasterCard. Once there, you can inspect devils (some giving you the raspberry), hobgoblins, and birds of prey. Look carefully and you may see hunchback Quasimodo with Esmerelda. The walk is not hard but the spirals are tight: walk on the outer part of the steps. You can walk all the way up to the Compana in the Bell Tower. Every bell has a name. At 2130, there are free projected films on Thursday nights in the place du Parvis.

Approached through a garden behind Notre-Dame is the Mémorial des Martyrs Français de la Déportation de 1945 (Deportation Memorial), out on the tip of Ile de la Cité. Here, birds chirp and the Seine flows gently by, but the memories are far from pleasant. The memorial commemorates the French citizens who were deported to concentration camps during World War II. Carved into stone are these blood-red words (in French): “Forgive, but don’t forget.” The memorial is open Monday to Friday from 8:30am to 9:45pm and Saturday and Sunday from 9am to 9:45pm. Admission is free.

Place du Parvis Notre-Dame
4th arr.
Paris 75004
Tel: +33 01 42 34 56 10
Metro: Cite





Random London

19 09 2005
  • Do not queue up at touts to exchange$ or euros into sterling pounds as some of these outfits can charge up to 9% in commission. Marks and Spencer (107-115 Longacre, Covent Garden Tube) has an in-store Bureaux de Change with no queue, better exchange rate and no comission fee. The only better exchange rate is at Heathrow immediately before you pick up your baggage at baggage claim with no lines there either.
  • On weekends, Heathrow Express (airport to Paddington) offers 4 for 2 sales but they want to (I am not making this up) see all four (4) of us. If your group is any smaller, just grab two (2) other lost looking Japanese tourists.
  • Use cash dispensers (ATM) to withdraw pounds as some smaller outfits will not accept MasterCard. NatWest does not charge a dispensing fee (your bank, e.g., Wells Fargo, will) which halves your commission fee. In Leicester Square, the one with the shortest lines is opposite the McDonald’s as it is quite well hidden. Les Square is really for Americans: there is a (reheated) Pizza hut and Subway that are always full! Film premieres offer celeb spotting. We saw Keira Knightley who is very yummy. (We also saw Jerry Hall at the GQ Fashion Awards at the Opera house. She looks like a very tall horse)
  • Hop-on/off buses are lame and expensive at GBP 22 for two (2) days. Your Travelcard (5 or 7 day) is your best friend. Remember you can board a red bus with your TravelCard too. Pick one up at any Tube station. If you are trapped on a hop on bus in traffic, you cannot be dropped off at the nearest Tube. However, their not-toscale maps showing the tube stations are spectacular. I want to frame one. Tip: if you are less than two (2) tube stations away, walk.
  • Driving is on the opposite side of the street. It is quite maddening to try to remember which side to look when you are avoiding being run over so look both ways. This is a huge problem in Trafalgar Square where my Tesco Express waits for me every night.
  • The ONLY authentic TKTS booth is inside Leicester Square, i.e., it is free standing. They offer the top price seats at literally half price. Any booth attached to the street will rip you off. TKTS opens at 1000. Theatres are dark Sundays. There are independent liens for matinees and evenings so wait correctly.
  • London Dungeon and Madame Tussaud’s are highly overrated and expensive, and simply not worth it.
  • Pre-buy your entry ticket whenever you can, usually at a Tube station nearest the attraction. Ask for discounts for seniors, students and with your TravelCard. Unlike the mianland, nobody will ask for your International Student Identification Card (ISIC)
  • The crowds are huge but it is certainly worth taking the Beefeater talk and tour. Walk up the towers and check out the Crown Jewels.
  • Rather than waste time in Harrod’s (except for the food halls which are populated by tourists), check out the Portobello or Greenwich markets. Perhaps even the SPitalfields covered market. Why do you want to buy a Harrod’s stuffed bear? I just do not get it. Everything was quite unaffordable, even my favorite Molton Brown prodcuts. They will check your bags and there is fashion police: they have a dress code.
  • Piccadilly Circus is Times Square, but smaller. Less neon.
  • Changing of The Guards summary. Bunch of soldiers marches – man barks instructions – man’s shift ends – bugle plays – bunch of soldiers marches away, secretly sneering at hordes of tourists who got there one (1) hour earlier to witness this. If you must witness this kind of stuff, the shorter change of the Jewel House guards (I even struck a conversation with a couple of them) at the Tower is much crisper. Less barking. If you MUST see the COTG at Bucky Palace, then plan to pass by St. James Park to Traflagar Square around 1100 on even days and sneak a peek from Victoria monument or through the central gate. That is it. Green Park leases deck chairs at GBP2 for 4 hours. Take crumbs for the ducklings.
  • Many infectious looking people kiss the Diana memorial photographs imapled upont he gates outside Kensington Palace – do not touch any of them.
  • St. Paul’s Cathedral is heavy with crowds but there is a loophole. If you go for Choral Evensong (any day of the week) and are attending a service, there is no charge. Evenings are less crowded and the music is, well, divine
  • Fortnum and Mason. Must go.
  • Bucky Palace State Rooms are now open – buy your tickets in advance and allow a full two (2) hours to walk leisurely through. Admission to the Mews is included but they will not make this explicitly clear. The Palace is most beautiful in the twilight and all the tourists are getting foot massages by then. If you really want to see how Camilla lives, take the 10 minute trian ride from Paddington out to Windsor, more impressive and historic.
  • The cheapest place for souvenirs are near the British Museum (which is absolutely lovely). Do not buy them from your hotel or the attractions, or the airport. You can also find unique souvenirs in markets (Camden, Shepperds Bush). Duty free? Seriously, when is anything free? You can buy all those aftershaves at any of Macy’s sales in the Stoneridge Mall.
  • To enjoy Westminster Abbey, go for a religious service. Free Sunday organ recitals. The tourist trail is qutie silly. I like walking down the back alleys in the city of Westminster. It is much more colorful than Londontown anyway. Speak to the locals. Chat with the protestors.
  • London Zoo: Do we not have zoos in San Francisco and Oakland? What is wrong with you?If you are traveling with children, go to Warwick Castle instead.
  • You could take the Thames River Cruise but it is not anything special. The Tate to Tate Cruise is a better idea. Still better, a late night stroll on the bank. There are always street musicians.
  • The London SunDial is on every tourist itinerary. As most of us know, a sundial needs sun. I would recommend bringing your own wristwatch or something.
  • For late night clubbing, avoid the commercial ones in Leicester Square at all costs. They are also quite dear. Camden or Spitalfields market area are nicer. Heaven.




Trafalgar Square

18 09 2005

Trafalgar Square is the junction of the busiest streets in Londontown: Strand, Mall, Whitehall and Charing Cross Road. From here, you can see Nelson’s column, the church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields and those pesky pigeons. It is the centerpiece of the square that serves as a meeting point for locals, bands and rallies on weekends and a favored spot for overseas visitors to get photographed. It is so cliche to be photographed at the base of the column near the renowned Landseer lions. The National Gallery and the National Portrait Gallery border one side of the Square. The world’s slowest glass elevator takes you to stainless steel underground toilets. Free.

TS has been a central meeting place since the Middle Ages. At that time it was called Charing. A memorial cross was placed there and it became known as Charing Cross. The nearby tube station is still called Charing Cross. From the 13th century on it was the site of the King’s Royal Hawks and later the Royal Mews. In 1812 the Prince Regent (who would later become King George V) asked the landscape architect John Nash to redevelop the area. He cleared the area but died before his plans were realized. The new design was finally implemented between 1840 and 1845 under supervision of the architect Sir Charles Barry, better known for his Houses of Parliament.

In the center of the square is the tall Nelson’s Column which was built to commemorate the victory of Admiral Horatio Lord Nelson over the French fleet at the Battle of Trafalgar on the 21st of October 1805. Nelson was fatally wounded during that famous battle off the Spanish coast. His body was taken back to London and buried in the St. Paul’s Cathedral. The Corinthian column was built in 1842 and is approximately 170ft. It was built after a design by William Railton chosen from a selection of 124 competition entries. On top of the column is an 18ft high statue of Lord Nelson, created by Edmund Hodges. At the base of the column are four huge lions modeled by Sir Edwin Landseer. They were added later in 1868.

Trafalgar square also contains a large number of statues and two fountains by Sir Edwin Lutyens, added in 1939. The square is surrounded by many great buildings. On the north side is the neo-classical National Gallery, built between 1834 and 1838. It houses a collection of more than 2300 paintings, including work from van Gogh, Renoir, Leonardo da Vinci and Claude Monet. On the east side the square is bordered by the Canada House, completed in 1827. Opposite the Canada House is the South Africa House, which opened in 1933. Canada House is currently showcasing the photography of Bryan Adams (“Canadian Beauty”) until December 30. They are 30 individual portraits of Canadian women who have excelled in business, sports, politics and arts. It is neither bad nor memorable. Tours are booked by ringing 0207 358 6421: rooms are not normally open to the public.

At the north-east corner is the St. Martin-in-the-Fields parish church. The church with a large white steeple was built in 1721 by James Gibbs and was used as a model for many churches, especially in the United States. It is the fourth church at this site, the first was built in the 13th century.

The north side of the square was redeveloped in 2003. The area in front of the National Gallery was pedestrianized and a flight of stairs now leads to the museum. A great improvement from the past when people had to cross a busy road in order to get to museum.





Newbie London

17 09 2005
Some suggestions for the first time Londontown traveler:
  • Go to your local bookstore or library and review material on London. I found the Eyewitness travel guides I purchased from Amazon.com extremely helpful with its colorful pictures. It was heavy and I left it in the hotel room every day.
  • Buy index cards. For each attraction you might be interested in visiting, write out the name, address, phone number, hours and days of operation, closest tube (underground) station, and admission fee on each card. You can always slip the card(s) in your bag, pocket, etc, and it will keep you very organised. It’s easier than carrying a notebook with you. You could also download this into your Blackberry but the last time I mentioned a Blackberry, I was covered with vitriol by those who profess not to have a Blackberry. Apparently, such friends exist.
  • Plan outdoor and indoor activities, always have a “Side B” in the event of rain. Or have a poncho, my second best friend after a TravelCard.
  • It is not uncommon for London hotels, and B & B’s, not to supply wash cloths — or as they are know “face flannel”. Generally the American owned hotels, like Hyatt, Marriott, Holiday Inn, Sheraton, will provide them. If you don’t want to bring your good ones, purchase some cheap ones at Target or Walmart. I bought some at Walgreens for less than a dollar. Buy colored ones, instead of white, so the maid/housekeeper doesn’t accidentally take it with the used towels. An energy-efficient way is to use baby wipes which are nonfragrant and hypoallergenic. I use body gels to wash my cotton tees and then hand them up to dry on the warm towel rails. The towel rails can get pretty hot so be careful when you handle them.
  • When in a restaurant, if you want a regular glass of water, you must specifically ask for “tap water,” otherwise the server will bring you a bottle of water, and charge you dearly for it. If you do want bottled water — they will ask if you want sparkling or still — sparkling obviously is like Perrier and still is regular mineral/drinking water. The more beautiful the bottle, the worse it tastes but the more dear it is. The most expensive one we had was VOSS, which is heavily chlorinated. Dasani, not universally available, and Evian were clear tasting. London metro water is potable (safe to drink).
  • Unlike the US, restaurants don’t generally offer soup and salad with your meal. These items are usually “a la carte”. Do not expect a basket of rolls/bread, ugly American . If you want bread or roll, you must order it, and you will be charged for it. If you order a roll, you’ll be charged about 30-50p. Our problem is we eat too much. Londoners are uniformly thin and walk about a lot. Also we air-condition every thing. We are spoiling ourselves and not in a nice way.
  • If you see Lemonade on a menu, it’s not the same thing as our lemonade (made from water/sugar/lemons). The UK version of Lemonade is a carbonated Lemon drink similar to our Seven-up and Sprite. .
  • Beverages are not served with as much ice as they are in the US, and Beer/Ale are served a bit warmer than we are accustomed to.
  • If you prefer Equal or Splenda, bring some with you. As far as I recall, I’ve only seen the “pink” packets of sugar substitute on the tables.
  • With regard to money. Your best bet is to use the ATM’s which are all over London which are called cash dispensers, as that is what they do. You will get the best rate. There is no charge to use the ones connected to banks, but your bank will probably have a charge. You’ll get a better exchange rate than if you bring cash to exchange there. Use your credit card for your high end purchases, as most credit card companies charge a fee for using your credit cards in foreign countries. Many merchants will not accept travelers cheques, and using them will generally create an inconvenience for you.
  • English currency is similar to US money in that 100 cents equal $1.00, and 100 pence equals £1.00. Bills, or as they are known in the UK, are called “notes,” and come in denominations of £5.00, £10.00, £20.00 and £50.00. There are no £100.00 notes. Unlike the US dollar, the denomination of English notes vary in colour and size.
  • Coins are found in the following denominations: £1.00, £2.00, 50p, 20p, 10p, 2p, 1p. They are nearly all circular but heavier and thicker. They look like cookies or subway tokens. Bring a coin purse, because chances are you’ll end up with many coins at the end of the day!
  • The sales tax is included in the price of your purchases. So, if you see a tee shirt for £10.00, it will cost you £10.00. Full stop (which is, for us, period)
  • Unlike the US where you look to your left first before crossing the street/road, in the UK you MUST look to your right, otherwise you may be flattened like a pancake. This was the most confusing as we changed countries every few days so it is best to look both sides and then cross. At double intersections, look for all the men to turn green before you cross or you risk getting stranded between streams of traffic.
  • When riding on an escalator, unless you plan on sprinting down the steps, stay to the right. Sprinters on the left!
  • Always have an umbrella with you, or a fold up poncho.
  • Make a couple of photo copies of your passport. Bring one with you, but put it in a different spot than where you will carry your original. Perhaps your suitcase, or tote bag/carry on bag. Leave a copy at home with a friend or family member, who would be able to fax it to you in the event of an emergency. Guard your passport with your life! If the hotel has a safe, leave it in the safe. Make photo copies of your credit card numbers too. I pdf’d all this and sent it to my server. I also had photocopies of my passport in my hotel room.
  • Contact your credit card company and/or bank that issued your ATM card, and let them know you will be traveling out of the country. I have known many people whose credit cards didn’t work because the bank was concerned someone unauthorised to use the card was using it abroad, and the cards were suspended until they heard from the card owner. Additionally, ask your bank and the credit card companies for direct numbers in the event you may have to call them to report a lost or stolen credit card. A toll free number will do you no good if you’re in England.
  • If you take prescription drugs, make sure you leave them in their original bottles/containers. If you have one of those prescription plans that give you a 90 day supply, ask your local pharmacist if he’d type a label for your meds, and give you a smaller bottle. If you are prone to a particular medical problem, such as sinus infections, bladder infections, etc. – tonsillitis or ear infections if traveling with children, ask your doctor for a prescription for that “occasional” medication you take. If you suffer from a variety of ailments, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to bring a list of your medications and their dosage.
  • If you wear contacts or glasses, ask your optician/optometrist/ophthalmologist, for a copy of your written prescription, in the event you should lose or damage your eyeglasses or contacts, or just bring extra pairs/sets.
  • Bring at least two pairs of comfortable walking shoes. You will be doing a lot of walking! Take bath bombs or epsom salt crystals to soak your feet in the tub after a long day of hours of walking if you are not used to this mode of exercise. Chances are you drive everywhere.
  • If visiting the Tower of London, purchase your tickets ahead of time. Just outside the Tower Hill underground, there is a kiosk and you may purchase your tickets there, at no additional cost. Sometimes the line can be long to purchase tickets at the Tower. The same thing applies to Madame Toussaud’s. This is a very popular attraction, and the line can go around the block. There is a separate line for those already holding tickets. This wax museum is highly overrated. Buy as many attraction tickets beforehand so you can fast track it to the head of the line marked “ADVANCE TICKETS” or “Will Call”.
  • Take note that the Victoria Coach station (like our Greyhound Bus Stations) is in a different location (although only 1/4 mile away) from the Victoria train station. I have seen several people wandering around the train station looking for the buses.
  • The Eurostar is an efficient and cheap means of shuttling to Paris. It has 18 coaches (the first six (6) first class. Try and choose a middling coach, between 8 and 11, so you don’t have to haul heavy baggage too far.




Lists London

16 09 2005

Things You can Buy with MasterCard in London

  • Heathrow Express: direct from LHR to Paddington, clean and efficient.
  • 7-day TravelCard for limitless tube travel. MasterCard. London is very walkable but wear well driven shoes, or you will blister easily.
  • Big Bus Tours: hop on/off as soon as you get to Londontown. Not only do they give you a good idea of the city layout but are a bargain to match.
  • TKTS. Lines not as long as the ones in Times Square. The only genuine one is opposite the Shakespeare statue in Leicester square (pron. “lester”, don’t ask), and there are many touts all around. Not much good theater running currently.
  • Eurostar: Waterloo (take the Bakerloo line) to Gare du Nord. Just under three (3) hours. Not very scenic passagiata but you get there soon enough. Middling dining coach so pick up nibbly bits at Marks and Spencer Food express before boarding.
  • Tate to Tate. River cruise. Greenwich Cruise. It is utterly delightful to enjoy the Thames by sundown because then you cannot quite clearly see the rubbish floating thereupon.
  • British Airways London Eye. I thought it best to take the thirty (30) minutes flight after you have been about Londontown and Westminster, so you have all your bearings.
  • Squares, circuses and gardens which are not any of the above. Lively late night shenanigans in Covent Garden. Wagamama: oodles of noodles. Why patronize the Pizza Huts and Subways? Bistros and osterias not open until very late though so tuck food away.
  • Indian fusion restaurants. Wayside middle eastern diners. Sushi clubs. Explanatory menus, helpful waitstaff, service and VAT included.
  • Large box stores: Harrod’s, Hamley’s, Marks and Sparks. Distressing that I cannot decide which is more disgusting at Harrod’s – the princess Di memorial sculpture or the introduction of Krispy Kreme. Lovely luxury toilets on the top floor.




Week in Wine

15 09 2005

California Pinot Grigio

2004 Beringer Founders’ EstateCalifornia Pinot Grigio: $11
2004 Beringer Premier Vineyard Selection California Pinot Grigio: $12
2004 Bocce California Pinot Grigio: $10
2004 Fetzer Vineyards Valley Oaks California Pinot Grigio: $9
2004 HRM Rex Goliath California Pinot Grigio: $9
2004 Meridian Vineyards California Pinot Grigio: $10
2004 Montevina California Pinot Grigio: $10
2004 Rabbit Ridge Paso Robles Pinot Grigio: $12
2004 Turning Leaf Vineyards Reserve California Pinot Grigio: $9
2004 Twin Fin California Pinot Grigio: $10





Theater Check

14 09 2005

Make a check list as comprehensively as you can before you had over any money to your professional home theater installer.

Read: Sounds simple enough, but basic research goes a long way in bringing yourself up to speed on the current technologies and construction methods, that go into custom home theater construction.

Discuss: Discussing your new investment with your significant other beforehand can nix unexpected surprises and disappointments later, when changes become difficult and costly.

Define your overall needs: This is a big one, if you don’t articulate what you want and expect from your custom installer, the results likely won’t resemble what you envisioned.

Provide your integrator detailed specifications and drawings: This one might sound a little odd, but even if it is just “one room” this one rooms cost per square foot is often one of the highest in the home. Don’t chance misunderstandings or uh-oh’s to poor specifications or lack of documentation.

Further definition of your seating and general room requirements: I see this area as a growing problem between client, integrator and build-out contractor. Unless everyone is on the same page the design execution may suffer. The reality is, no matter how much state of the art equipment you put into the room, if the room itself isn’t comfortable and inviting, your return on investment will be diminished.

Before the wiring begins talk about future technologies: It’s never too late to wire for future technologies, it just gets more expensive after the fact. Before the pre-wire is the time to nail down as many what-if’s as possible.

Have your integrator prepare a detailed list of proposed equipment: Now surely every proposal will list (at least in part) the equipment your installer/integrator intends to use for your project, but what we want is specific names, models and quantities. For example “HDTV Satellite receiver” just won’t cut it, is it DirecTV, DishNetwork or uncle bobs FTA sat receiver? Without a detailed description, you may find out much too late.

Obtain a wiring schematic from your installer: You’re paying for the pre-wire, you deserve to have a detailed wiring diagram of the work once completed. Also be wary of any integrator that seems reluctant to provide such a diagram. A competent detailed installer with fair prices shouldn’t worry about “getting shopped”, by your desire to have a roadmap of his work. In addition, make sure any high voltage electrical work on the project, is handled by a licensed electrician.

Get an installation plan and project timeline: Before you sign the bottom line, get a detailed installation plan and timeline. “We’ll get right on it” might mean next year. Ask questions, ask more, do more research, and then ask more questions. Here’s another tip, any custom A/V integrator worth his salt won’t mind a few questions, it typicaly means less questions after the fact, when they’re trying to move on to the next job.





Celebri Tea

13 09 2005

So which celebrities are riding the Katrina wave?

• Steven Spielberg and his family are donating $750,000 to the American Red Cross and $750,000 to the Bush-Clinton Katrina Fund.

• George Clooney will donate $1 million to the United Way Hurricane Katrina Response Fund. The actor-director is a member of the United Way Board of Trustees.

• Barry Manilow will match every dollar donated through the Manilow Fund for Health and Hope, with the fund also adding a dollar, turning $1 into $3.

• The Recording Academy and its MusiCares Foundation have pledged an initial donation of $1 million to help “music people” affected by the hurricane.

•ReAct Now: Music & Relief will air Saturday on MTV, VH1 and CMT (8 p.m. ET) with artists including the Rolling Stones, Paul McCartney, Neil Young, Sheryl Crow, Alan Jackson, Kelly Clarkson, the Neville Brothers and Kanye West.

• The American Idols Live! tour has extended its run to Saturday, with a show in Syracuse, N.Y., to benefit hurricane victims.

• From Sept. 11-18, jazz musicians in Manhattan will raise money for the American Red Cross with shows in clubs throughout the city.

• David Banner, through his Heal The Hood foundation, will hold a Sept. 17 benefit concert in Atlanta with guest appearances/performances by T.I., Nelly, Twista and others.

• Jazz at Lincoln Center will host a benefit concert Sept. 17 in New York City. Among those participating: Wynton Marsalis, Bill Cosby, Elvis Costello, Robert De Niro, Paul Simon and Bette Midler.

•Gospel Angels, a live concert from Atlanta, will air Sept. 22 (8 p.m. ET) on the Gospel Music Channel and Paxson Communications’ i network. The show will include performances from hurricane victims’ shelters.

• Harry Connick Jr. and Branford Marsalis have been named honorary chairs of Habitat for Humanity’s efforts for long-term rebuilding for homeless families on the Gulf Coast.

• Green Day, REM, John Cusack, Tim Robbins, Pearl Jam, Moby, the Beastie Boys and the Roots have joined with MoveOn.org to find housing for victims of the hurricane.





Gemini Cricket

12 09 2005

Sixteen years and 29 days. After years of humiliation, England today has finally won an enthralling cricket series against old rivals Australia.Jubilation is sweeping the nation. The British have firmly abandoned their stiff upper lips. To much of California, cricket is an impenetrably arcane sport with complicated rules, elongated five-day matches and endless weather breaks for a cup of tea. But to the English, who invented the sport and then had to suffer as others excelled at it, this is a moment to savour. For the first time in almost two decades, England held on to land The Ashes 2-1 after an intriguing summer of titanic clashes with their former colony. The Ashes are named after a piece of cricket gear burned after a humiliating English defeat at the Aussies’ hands in 1882 and consigned to an urn. As it became certain that Australia could not win, England supporters, many in fancy dress, were doing “conga” dances around London’s Oval cricket ground. Football, thanks to Becks, easily surpassed the popularity of traditional cricket.

I am often asked to explain the game of cricket by my local Californicators. That is an imponderable. I have never understood baseball despite M’s ardent efforts though I do enjoy a good Oakland A’s game with her on Saturday afternoons.

Arm Ball A ball bowled by a slow bowler which has no spin on it and so does not turn as expected but which stays on a straight line (“goes on with the arm”)

The Ashes Series between England and Australia are played for The Ashes

Asking rate – The runs required per over for a team to win – mostly relevant in a one-dayer

Ball Red for first-class and most club cricket, white for one-day matches (and, experimentally, women once used blue balls and men orange ones). It weighs 5½ ounces ( 5 ounces for women’s cricket and 4¾ ounces for junior cricket)

Ball Tampering The illegal action of changing the condition of the ball by artificial means, usually scuffing the surface, picking or lifting the seam of the ball, or applying substances other than sweat or saliva

Bat-Pad A fielding position close to the batsman designed to catch balls which pop up off the bat, often via the batsman’s pads

Batter Another word for batsman, first used as long ago as 1773. Also something you fry fish in

Beamer A ball that does not bounce (usually accidently) and passes the batsman at or about head height. If aimed straight at the batsman by a fast bowler, this is a very dangerous delivery (and generally frowned on)

Bend your back – The term used to signify the extra effort put in by a fast bowler to obtain some assistance from a flat pitch

Belter A pitch which offers little help to bowlers and so heavily favours batsmen

Blob A score of 0

Bodyline (aka leg theory) A tactic most infamously used by England in 1932-33, although one which had been around for some time before that, in which the bowler aimed at the batsman rather than the wicket with the aim of making him give a catch while attempting to defend himself. The fielding side were packed on the leg side to take catches which resulted. This is now illegal

Bosie An Australian term for a googly, now rarely used. Originated from the inventor of the delivery, BJT Bosanquet

Bouncer A short-pitched ball which passes the batsman at chest or head height

Boundary The perimeter of a cricket field, or the act of the batsman scoring a four or a six (eg “Tendulkar hammered three boundaries”)

Box An abdominal protector worn by batsmen and wicketkeepers. It is also an old term for a fielder in the gully region.

Bump Ball A ball which is played off the bat almost instantly into the ground and is caught by a fielder. Often this has the appearance of being a clean catch

Bumper See Bouncer.

Bunny Also known as Rabbit. A member of the side who cannot bat and is selected as a specialist bowler or wicketkeeper, and who almost always bats at No. 11. It can also be used to describe a player who often gets out to one bowler – “Atherton was McGrath’s bunny”

Bunsen A term used by commentators to describe a pitch heavily favouring slow bowlers. From Cockney rhyming slang (Bunsen Burner = turner).

Bye A run scored when the batsman does not touch the ball with either his bat or body. First recorded in the 1770s.

Captain

Carry your bat an opening batsman who remains not out at the end of a completed innings (ie when all his team-mates are out)

Charge, giving the When a batsman leaves his crease to attack the ball, usually against a slow bowler. By doing this he can convert a good-length ball into a half-volley

Chest-on Used to describe a bowler who delivers the ball with his chest facing the batsman, as opposed to being side on

Chinaman A ball bowled by a left-arm slow bowler that turns into the right-hand batsman, in effect a left-arm legspinner. Named after Puss Achong

Chin music Fast bowlers aiming the ball at the batsman’s head. The term originated in the Caribbean

Chucker Another term for a bowler who throws the ball

Closing the face Turning the face of the bat inwards and, in doing so, hitting the ball to the leg side

Corridor of uncertainty A term beloved by commentators which describes an area just outside the batsman’s off stump where he is unsure whether he has to leave or play the ball

Cow corner An unconventional fielding position, more commonly found in the lower reaches of the game, on the midwicket/long-on boundary. The term is thought to have originated at Dulwich College where there was the corner of a field containing livestock on that edge of the playing area. Fielders were dispatched to the “cow corner”

Cricket Max A shortened version of the game with unconventional scoring systems pioneered by Martin Crowe in New Zealand in the late 1990s.

Cross bat A cross-batted shot is where the batsman holds his bat horizontally when striking the ball. Examples of cross-batted shots include hooks, pulls and cuts

Dead ball A ball from which no runs can be scored or wickets taken. First referred to in 1798

Declaration When the batting side ends their innings before all of their players are out

Dibbly-dobbly bowlers – Bowlers who are of medium pace, and are effective in the one-day scenario in choking the runs. New Zealand had a famous quartet – Rod Latham, Gavin Larsen, Chris Harris and Nathan Astle – during the 1992 World Cup

Dolly An easy catch

Doosra A Hindi/Urdu word which means “second” or “other”, the doosra is the offspinner’s version of the googly, delivered out of the back of the hand and turning away from the right-hand batsman

Drifter/ Floater – A delivery bowled by an offspinner which curves away from a right-hander, and then carries straight on instead of turning

Duck A score of 0 or blob

Duckworth Lewis Named after Frank Duckworth and Tony Lewis, two mathematicians who devised a system to help decide one-day cricket matches when rain interrupts play. Click here for more information.

Economy rate The average number of runs a bowler concedes per over

Extras Runs not scored by batsmen. There are four common extras – byes, leg byes, wides and no-balls. In Australia these are known as sundries

Featherbed A batsmen-friendly pitch with little life for the bowlers. Often found in Antigua

Flintoff

Flipper A variation for the legspinner that appears to be pitching short but the ball skids on quickly and often results in bowled or lbw. It is a delivery that is used sparingly

Full toss A ball that reaches the batsmen without bouncing. Above waist height it becomes a beamer

Gardening – The act of the batsman repairing indentations in the pitch, made by the ball or studs, with his bat. More likely to happen when a ball has just whistled past his nose or scooted by his ankle

Good length – The ideal length that the bowler aims for, getting the batsman in two minds as whether to play forwards or back

Googly – The legspinner’s variation that turns into the right-hander and away from the left-hander

Grubber – A ball that hardly bounces

Half volley – A ball that is the perfect length for driving, fuller than a good length but not a full-toss

Handled the ball – If the batsmen deliberately touches the ball with his hands he can be given out. Michael Vaughan fell victim to this in India on 2002-03 tour in Bangalore

Hawk-Eye – A tracking technology which helps to explain the intricacies of the sport, Hawk-Eye can be helpful in judging LBWs. At the moment it is used mainly for arm-chair umpiring, although one day it may be used in an official capacity

Heavy ball – When a delivery is quicker than it looks and hits the bat harder or higher than is expected

Hit the ball twice – If a batsmen deliberately strikes the ball twice to gain runs he can be given out. However, the batsman can knock the ball away from his stumps with the bat

Hit the deck – The bowler’s ability to deliver the ball from height and extract extra bounce from the pitch

Hoick – Same as slog, but most used for on-side shots

In-ducker – An inswinging delivery that moves into the batsman very late. Wasim Akram produced deadly versions with the older ball

Inside out, turning the batsman – A batsman aims to leg but the ball goes past the off and he is forced to play the ball open-chested

Inside-out shot – A stroke where the batsman moves towards the leg side and hits a ball around leg stump into the off side

Jaffa – A delivery that is too good for the batsman, and leaves him groping hopelessly at thin air or (as the bowler will hope) dismisses him

King pair – Hardly worth turning up if you get one of these � out first ball for zero in both innings

Leading edge – When the batsman mis-hits the ball and edges it forward in the opposite direction to which he was attempting to play

Leg-bye – When the ball deflects off the pad and the batsmen run. A shot must be offered to the ball. Leg-byes do not count against the bowler

Leg-break/spin – When the ball pitches and turns from leg to off for a right-hander

Leg-cutter – A ball which cuts and moves away from the batsman towards the offside (if he is a righthander)

Leg-side – The area of the pitch behind the batsman’s legs

Leg theory See Bodyline

Length Where the ball pitches down the wicket. Lengths can be generally short, full or good

Lifter – A ball that rises unexpectedly

Line – The line of attack the bowler employs when he is bowling

Lollipop – A really easy ball to hit – a ‘gift’

Long hop – a ball which pitches short, sits up and ‘begs’ to be hit

Loop – The flight of the ball

Maiden – An over where no runs that are attributable to the bowler are scored (byes or leg-byes may be scored in this over, though, as these don’t count against the bowler)

Manhattan A bar graph of runs scored per over which resembles the Manhattan skyscrapers skyline

Mankad – A term popular mainly in indoor cricket – but also fairly popular in Australia for outdoor cricket. Mankad is when the bowler brings his arm round and, instead of releasing the ball, runs out the non-striker by whipping off the bails. This type of dismissal is rare – and usually a warning is given to the batsman beforehand. Named after Vinoo Mankad, who twice dismissed the Australian Bill Brown this way

MCC – The Marylebone Cricket Club, the spiritual home of cricket at Lord’s in St Johns Wood in London. For the greater period of cricket’s formal history, the MCC which was founded in 1787, was the autocratic arbiter in cricket matters. No law could be changed without its approval. And while the administration of the game world-wide has moved to the International Cricket Council, and to the England and Wales Cricket Board in Britain, the MCC is still regarded as the ultimate defender of the laws of the game, a type of Privy Council of cricket. For many years, English touring teams were known officially as the MCC but as the ‘great’ has ebbed away from Britain and its colonies, so the influence of the MCC has diminished. Also the initials of the Melbourne Cricket Club in Victoria.

Middle – To hit the ball from the meat of the bat, “to middle it” is to connect really well. Middle is also the centre of the field, where the bulk of the action takes place

Military Medium – A slightly derogative term for a bowler who has no real pace

Minefield – A difficult batting track. The pitch is in such a state of disrepair that it is almost impossible to play “proper” shots as the ball is popping up everywhere

Nelson – The English superstition that 111 and its multiples are unlucky. The sticks resemble 111, and is loosely connected with Lord Nelson’s physical attributes. Double Nelson is 222

Nervous nineties – The psychological pressure on the batsman knowing he is approaching a century

New ball – Can usually be taken every 80 overs. The advantage is to quick bowlers who have a shiny and bouncy ball, but conversely it can result in an increase in scoring rate as the ball comes off the bat faster

Nick – A faint edge off the bat

Nightwatchman A non-batsman promoted up the order towards the end of a day’s play with the idea of shielding a recognised batsman in the final overs

No-ball – An illegitimate delivery, usually when the bowler has overstepped on the front crease

Nurdle – The batsman nudging the ball around and into gaps

Obstruction – When the batsman wilfully blocks or distracts a fielder to prevent a catch being made or a run-out being effected

Occupy the crease – When a batsman stays at the wicket but scores slowly, often with the intention of playing out for a draw

Off-break/spin – A ball turning into the right hander- from off to leg (from left to right)

Off-cutter – An offbreak delivered at speed

Off the mark When the batsman scores his first run

Off-side The side of the pitch which is to batsman’s right (if right-handed), or left (if left-handed)

On-side The same as the leg-side

On the up – Making contact with the ball before it reaches the top of the bounce – hitting it on the rise. Viv Richards was a prominent exponent

Out – There are ten possible ways of being out: bowled, caught, hit wicket, lbw, stumped, timed out, handled the ball, obstruction, hit the ball twice, and run out. To be out “retired out” is gaining in currency and popularity and counts as a dismissal, unlike “retired hurt”

Outside edge – When the ball hits the edge of the bat which is furthest away from his body

Outswing – When the ball swings away from the batsman and towards the slips

Paddle – A sweep shot

Pair – When a batsman gets a duck in both innings

Pinch-hitters – Lower-order batsmen promoted in the line-up to try and hit up a few quick runs. Used mostly when a team is chasing a huge total in a one-dayer – the thinking being that a few quick runs will reduce the asking rate; and if the pinch-hitter gets out, the specialist batsmen are still around

Pitch – The bounce of the ball – “it pitches on a good length”. Also, the cut strip in the centre of the field of play

Play on – When a batsman hits the ball but it goes on to hit the stumps and he is bowled

Plumb – When the batsman is clearly LBW, even at full speed, he is said to be plumb in front.

Pudding – A slow, stodgy pitch which will be difficult to score quickly on

Pull – a back-foot leg-side shot, distinct from the hook because the pull is played to a ball that hasn’t risen as high.

Rabbit See Bunny

Return Crease Parallel white lines pointing down the pitch, either side of the stumps. A bowler’s back foot must land inside this area or else a no-ball will be called.

Retire To postpone or end one’s innings, either voluntarily through boredom when you’re simply too good for the opposition, or involuntarily and in agony, when a nasty fast bowler has taken his pound of flesh

Reverse Sweep The epitome of the type of shot you will not find in the MCC coaching manual. This stroke is played by dropping to one knee and reversing one’s hands, so that you can swing the ball from leg to off, rather than the more natural off to leg. It is a handy stroke for beating conventional fields in a one-day game, but it has its drawbacks as well – just ask Mike Gatting

Reverse Swing When the ball is 50 overs old and the pitch is as flat as a pancake, this phenomenon is often a bowling side’s saving grace. First mastered by the Pakistani quicks of the 1980s and 1990s, it involves sideways movement of the ball through the air that is contrary to your average everyday laws of physics. If it sounds like rocket science, that is because it is

Rip Big turn for a spin bowler, especially a legspinner, who can use the whole action of the wrist to impart maximum revolutions on the ball. Shane Warne, consequently, bowls a lot of “rippers”

Ring Field A standard fielding arrangement, with men positioned in a circle all around the bat saving the single

Rock Colloquial term for cricket ball

Roll To flatten the playing surface with a heavy rolling device. At the end of an innings, the side about to start their innings will be offered the choice of a heavy or light roller

Roller A heavy rolling device designed to flatten the surface of the pitch

Rope Used to mark the perimeter of the field. If the ball crosses or hits the rope, a boundary will be signalled

Rough The area of a pitch that is scuffed up and loosened by the action of a bowler running through in his follow-through. Usually, this will be situated a foot or so outside leg stump, and consequently it becomes a tasty target for spin bowlers, who can exploit the extra turn to make life a misery for the batsmen

Run-chase Generally the fourth innings of a first-class or Test match, and the latter stages of a one-day game, when the match situation has been reduced to a set figure for victory, in a set time or maximum number of overs

Run-rate Of particular importance in a one-day game, this is the average number of runs scored per over, and is used as a guide to a team’s progress

Run-up The preparatory strides taken by a bowler as they steady themselves for delivery. Also the area in which they perform said action

Runner A player who is called upon by a batsman who might otherwise need to retire hurt. He is required to wear the same padding and stands at square leg or the non-striker’s end to perform the duty of running between the wickets. Often the cause of endless confusion and inevitable run-outs

Sandshoe crusher Colloquial term for Yorker, a full-pitched delivery that is aimed at the batsman’s toes and usually hits them aswell

Seam The ridge of stitching that holds the two halves of a ball together, and causes deviation off the pitch when the ball lands. Seam bowlers, as opposed to swing bowlers, rely on movement off the pitch, rather than through the air

Shoulder arms The description of when a batsman decides that rather than risk being dismissed from a ball he lifts the bat high above his shoulder to attempt to keep his bat and hands out of harm’s way.

Shirtfront A flat, lifeless, soul-destroying wicket that is beloved of batsmen the world over, and loathed by bowlers of all varieties. For a prime example, see the Antigua Recreation Ground

Sitter The easiest, most innocuous and undroppable catch that a fielder can ever receive. To drop one of these is to invite a whole world of pain from the crowd and constant embarrassment from the giant replay screen

Sledging Not the act of travelling downhill at speed on a toboggan, but the act of verbally abusing or unsettling a batsman, in an attempt to make him lose concentration and give his wicket away. Often offensive, occasionally amusing, always a topic of conversation

Slog – Used to describe a shot which is not in the coaching book

Slogger – Exponent of the slog

Slog-sweep – A heave to the leg side, played like the sweep, but a lofted shot

Slower ball Like naff plastic wristbands, these are the must-have accessory of the modern international bowler. The idea is to deliver a pace of significantly reduced pace, while at the same time turning your arm over at the same speed so as to deceive the batsman. This change of pace can be achieved by a change of grip, or a late tweak of the wrist. The best exponents – Courtney Walsh, Chris Cairns – are lethal. The worst – no names mentioned – tend to be smacked clean over cow corner for six

Standing back/standing up Where a wicketkeeper positions himself for a particular bowler. He stands back for fast bowlers, and stands up for spinners

Stock ball A bowler’s regular delivery, minimum risk, little chance of runs or wickets. To get away with a slower ball, they need a stock ball to lull the batsman into a false sense of security

Stonewall To protect one’s wicket at all costs, putting defence above all other virtues. See Jacques Kallis. Also a gay pride organisation

Strike rate The number of runs a batsman scores per 100 balls; the number of deliveries a bowler needs to take his wickets

Sundries Australian word for extras

Swing A ball that curves through the air, as opposed to off the seam.

Tailender Players who come in towards the end of an innings, generally Nos. 8, 9, 10 and 11, who are not noted for their batting prowess (although ideally they can bowl a bit by way of compensation)

Throwing To deliver the ball with a arm that flexes at the elbow at point of delivery, thereby enabling extra spin to be imparted for a slow bowler, or extra pace for a quick bowler. A topic of endless debate

Ton A century (100 runs by a single batsman in one innings)

Tonk To give the ball a good wallop, onomatopoeically named after the sound a good hit makes. See also twat, biff, thwack, belt, spank and leather

Track The pitch

Trundler Slow, laborious type of bowler who thinks he’s quick, once was quick, or is simply old, fat and unfit and needs to be put out to pasture.

Twelfth man A substitute fielder (and drinks waiter) for the chosen eleven. If called upon to play, he is permitted to field wherever he is needed, but can neither bat nor bowl

Two-paced A wicket that is beginning to break up, usually after three or four days of a Test match, and so produces some deliveries that leap off a length, and others that sneak through at shin-height

Uncovered pitches Pitches that were left open to the elements for the duration of a match, and so developed a variety of characteristics. The failings of a generation of English batsmen were attributed to the decision, in the 1970s, to bring on the covers at the slightest hint of rain

V – in the The arc between mid-off and mid-on in which batsmen who play straight (in accordance with the MCC Coaching Manual) tend to score the majority of their runs. Modern aggressive players, such as Virender Sehwag, tend to prefer the V between point and third man

Wagon-wheel A circular graph or line-drawing depicting the region in which a batsman has scored his runs

Walk (To) The improbable act of a batsman giving himself out, without waiting for an umpire’s decision. Adam Gilchrist, famously, did this against Sri Lanka in the semi-final of the 2003 World Cup. Mike Atherton, equally famously, did not at Trent Bridge in 1998, en route to a matchwinning 98 not out against South Africa

Wicket One of those ubiquitous words that is central to the game of cricket. The word can be used to describe the 22 yards between the stumps, the stumps collectively (bails included), the act of hitting these stumps and so dismissing the batsman, and perversely, the act of not being out (Gayle and Sarwan added 257 for the second wicket). Plus any other use you care to think of

Wide A delivery that pitches too far away from the batsman and so proves impossible to score off. The umpire will single this by stretching his arms out horizontally, an extra will be added to the total and the ball will be bowled again

Winning team

Wrist spin The version of spin bowling in which the revolutions on the ball are imparted via a flick of the wrist, rather than a tweak of the fingers. As a general rule, a right-arm wristspinner’s action turns the ball from leg to off (legspin) while a left-armer turns it from off to leg

Wrong ‘un Australian term for a googly – a legspinner’s delivery that turns in the opposite direction, ie from off to leg

Yips A mental affliction that affects many sportsmen, particularly golfers and spin bowlers. It is a mindblock that can cause a player to forget the basics of his game, and in the most serious cases can force that player into early retirement

Yorker A full-pitched delivery that is aimed at the batsman’s toes and/or the base of the stumps. If the ball is swinging, these can be the most lethal delivery in the game, as perfected by Waqar Younis in his pomp

Zooter A spin bowling variation, first devised by Shane Warne. This is a delivery that snakes out of the hand with little or no spin imparted, and so deceives through its very ordinariness. Some question whether the delivery has ever existed, for it could be another of Warne’s mindgames to keep his opponents on their toes





Designer London

11 09 2005

Stores on Bond and Sloane Street have the very best designers and the most up-to-date fashion available but this might be at a price just out of your reach. However, many designers have sale shops. The stock might be last season’s but it will still be of a high quality and you are guaranteed to look just as stylish.

Burberry has experienced a resurgence in popularity lately and you will be pleased to know that there is a sale shop in the city. Here you will be able to buy into the trend at about a third of the normal price. Pick up one of the signature pieces such as a well-known mackintosh or scarf and no one would ever know that you paid so little for it. The shop is in 29 Chatham Place, London E9, near Hackney Central and Homerton railway stations.

If you want flattering and feminine clothes in luxurious fabrics, Caroline Charles should be your designer of choice. Her sale shop is in North London and a search through the racks will result in up to 75% off the normal retail price. You will not only find last season’s stock but also a few exclusive “one-offs” and accessories never previously seen. Head to 9 St John’s Wood High Street , NW8. Tube: St John’s Wood.

Another major British designer with a loyal following is Nicole Fahri. Renowned for her linen pieces, quality leather and soft, wearable colours, she has shops and concessions all over the city. But if you want to buy these items at around 50% less than the retail price then go to the outlet shop in South West London. Samples, seconds and previous season’s stock are all present and in pristine quality in her outlet which is at 75-83 Fairfield Road , SW18.

Paul Smith is incredibly popular both here and abroad. His quirky take on classic British tailoring flies off the shelves. His sale shop is therefore well worth spending some time in. Both men and women can take advantage of the huge discounts on timeless knitwear, suits, jeans and separates. The shop is found at 23 Avery Row, W1. Tube: Bond Street.

French designer Joseph has a loyal fan-base. His clothes are renowned for their ability to flatter with his trousers being a bestseller. The sale shop is on the King’s Road and is a great place to find a new addition to your wardrobe. The stock is constantly updated so it is possible to find some recently produced pieces on the racks. Tube: Sloane Square.

If you are hoping to add to your shoe collection and want some quirky footwear, the Office sale shop in St Martin ’s Lane is an ideal choice. This high street chain produces fun shoes in bright colours season after season at reasonable prices. The sale shop is the place to find them at even cheaper prices. It is the ideal place to find the model that perhaps you missed last season. Head to 61 St Martin ’s Lane, WC2 to choose some bargains.





Theatre Land

10 09 2005

About London Theater
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The West End is the heart of London’s Theatreland and home to most of the top musicals and shows. Tickets for top shows are like gold dust but they don’t have to cost the earth

The tkts ticket booth in Leicester Square sells on-the-day tickets for many West End shows, mostly at half price plus a service charge of £2.50 per ticket. Some additional shows may also be available at a 25% discount, making it the best way to snap up last minute bargain tickets. Opening hours are Monday to Saturday 1000-1900 and Sunday 1200-1500 and you need to pay by cash or credit card.

If you can’t get tickets for the show you want to see at tkts, try directly at the theatre box office. Theatre box offices are mainly open from 1000. Alternatively, if you don’t want to risk not seeing your chosen show, use an online booking service.

Some shows offer last minute discounts at the box office for those who wait in line. Once again, rules vary from show to show so check with the box office in advance. It can be worth the wait but be prepared for disappointment as you take the risk of not getting in at all if you rely on a standby ticket.

Tickets for midweek afternoon performances tend to be sold more cheaply, so keep an eye out for matinees. Also, tickets for preview shows are usually sold at a reduced rate. This can be anything from £5 a seat less to half price. Try to attend the show as close to the official opening night as possible as it will be less likely to be radically altered before official opening night.

Keep an eye out in national and London press for adverts offering discounts on major shows during quieter periods. Throughout mid-Winter to late spring, discounts up to half price are offered by quoting reference at the box office.

Check for theatre discount in the Sunday Times Culture section and the Hot Tickets supplement on Thursdays with the Evening Standard. Listings magazine Time Out also carries offers in the theatre section and scattered throughout the magazine. The above publications can be bought at newspaper stands, in newsagents and larger book shops such as WH Smith and Borders.





Innocent Victims

9 09 2005

On the eve of the eighth anniversary of Princess Diana’s murder, she has been honored with a new sculpture dedicated to her and her lover, Dodi Fayed, who died in the Paris car crash. The bronze grotesque, entitled “Innocent Victims” was commission by Fayed’s father, the owner of Harrods, Mohammed Al Fayed, and created by family friend Bill Mitchell. It depicts D & D smiling into each other’s eyes as they apparently run along a beach together, with an albatross (what? yes) poised for flight at the tip of their joined hands. Dosi’s shirt is unbottoned to show his Chia pet growth carpet and the Princess is clad in a skimpy, clinging dress with a plunging waistline. The albatross is a symbol of eternity and good fortune. Chest hair is just tacky. Of course, they are now selling Krispy Kreme at Harrods so tackiness is relative.





Week in Wine

8 09 2005

California Pinot Grigios and Pinot Gris

2004 Bargetto California Pinot Grigio: $14
2004 Brassfield Estate Vineyard Clear Lake Pinot Grigio: $15
2004 Claudia Springs Winery Klindt Vnyd Anderson Valley Pinot Gris: $17
2004 Cosentino Winery Kirschenmann Vnyds Lodi Pinot Grigio: $18
2004 Echelon Esperanza Vnyd Clarksburg Pinot Grigio: $13
2004 Handley Cellars Anderson Valley Pinot Gris: $16
2004 J Russian River Valley Pinot Gris: $18
2004 Luna Vineyards Napa County Pinot Grigio: $18
2004 Navarro Vineyards Anderson Valley Pinot Gris: $17
2004 Terlato Vineyards Russian River Valley Pinot Grigio: $24





Budget London

7 09 2005

Talented mixologists, top DJs and late licences are the perfect ingredients for a good night out. However, your wallet might not always appreciate your penchant for sipping a cocktail in style.
Thankfully, many of the best venues have generous happy hours making your big night out an enjoyable as well as an affordable one.

The Langley is a bit hidden but if you make the effort to uncover this bar in Covent Garden then you will be rewarded. Venture beyond the glass door, down the spiral staircase and at the bottom you will see a sleek, cool bar and a lively crowd. One reason why the Langley is has earned itself a loyal clientele could be the Happy Hour from 1700 to 1900 which brings in the local media employees looking for a cheap after work drink. The bar is open until 0100.

Just five minutes walk from Brixton tube station and you will reach Coldharbour Lane, home to the chilled out Living bar. On arrival you can expect to be greeted with a cool interior, fitted out with deep sofas which will be perfect for slouching in after you have sampled a few of the attractively priced cocktails on the bars comprehensive drinks menu. If you are after a late night this is the perfect place as it has a late licence until 0200 on weekdays and 0400 at the weekends.

Cool doesn’t have to cost the earth. Camden ’s Bar Vinyl is an intimate bar with a friendly atmosphere and a reasonable price list that. By day it is a record store and café and by night it turns into a top destination for international DJ’s and urban twenty-some things. As well as having some hearty items on the food menu for you to tuck into, it’s the ideal place to just order some good drinks and rest in a retro chair while the cool music plays in the background.

If you want a taste of Latin America and fancy combining it with some generously poured cocktails then go to Cubana on London’s South Bank. This popular bar and restaurant has a daily Happy Hour between 1700 and 1830 and a late Happy Hour on Monday and Tuesday until 2200, making it the ideal place to go to for some post-work entertainment, if you can get away from your desk on time.

You don’t always have to pay through the nose to have an enjoyable night out. Dogstar in Brixton proves that. This bar/pub/club has been entertaining South Londoner’s for years. A selection of credible DJ’s on the decks and a late licence until 0200 or 0400 every night of the week means that you are guaranteed a good time. Combine that with the venue’s reputation for friendly staff, that fact that it does not have any sort of pretentious dress code and you have the perfect mix for a late evening out whatever day of the week.

Slouch in the Shoreditch hot spot DreambagsJaguarShoes. Two old shops have been converted and made into one cool venue which attracts a hip Hoxton crowd. Here you can sip an affordable drink and at the same time check out the exhibition space around you which is lined with works created by local artists. Music is loud. The bar opens from Wednesday – Sunday with the DJ’s starting their sets at 2000 and finishing at midnight.

Discreetly located on London’s Greek Street is the friendly Soho Wine Bar. This late night bar, laid out labyrinth-style, is open until 0300 and from 1700-1900 is a very tempting Happy Hour where you can take advantage of cheap drinks while you sit back in the cosy chairs and listen to the chilled out music playing in the background.

Chinatown, located in the heart of the West End has an amazing array of restaurants offering oriental cuisine, much of which is very affordable. Order a la carte, or opt for a set-price meal or buffet and you can easily eat within a £10 limit.

Similarly, head to Brick Lane, a spit from Liverpool St and fashionable Shoreditch, for an unbeatable selection of restaurants which serve a wide variety of Indian food. Many offer authentic regional dishes and a trip along Brick Lane can be a real voyage of culinary discovery, and you’re guaranteed to eat well for comparatively little cash.

Other venues for tasty treats can be found throughout the capital. Exotika, conveniently located just off the Strand, offers a great selection of dishes, such as Greek Salad and Thai Sweet & Sour Fish, all less than £6.50.

At Pizza Hut you can share a large pizza with extras for less than a tenner a head. Staying with Italian, Spaghetti House comes highly recommended, with quality meat and fish main courses for £9.95. Masala Zone offers tasty Indian food combined with modern presentation and surroundings – with two central locations you can eat like a king for budget prices, as main dishes cost £5-£11. Wandering the back streets of the West End alone, you’ll find lower prices because rent drops substantially. Also, you should root out places with a ‘bring your own bottle’ policy, thus avoiding the mark-ups of 300% and more that can be found on restaurant wine lists.





Free London

6 09 2005

MUSIC

Concerts

St Martin-in-the-Fields organise free lunchtime concerts as does the Royal Academy of Music. Be sure to visit the foyers of concert halls, especially the Royal Festival Hall and the Barbican Centre for regular free recitals at lunchtimes and in the early evenings.

The Royal Opera House in Covent Garden has a regular programme of free concerts in the Floral Hall and its studios. Tickets are required and can be picked up from 1000 on the day of the performance.

Nearby, in the Piazza at Covent Garden there are street performers entertaining the crowds everyday and head for Oxford Street’s big record and bookshops, such as HMV or Borders, to see free gigs by the latest chart acts.

Sounds of the South Bank

The area around the South Bank comes alive during summer time. There are often free festivals in Bernie Spain Gardens next to the Oxo Tower building and in the gardens next to the Embankment.

Live music, dance, performance art and children’s events make up summer’s Coin Street Festival which takes place by the Oxo Tower, programme details can be obtained from +44 (0)20 7401 2255.

During July and August, the floors, foyers and terraces of the South Bank transform into stages for performances by the top names in music and dance. All events are free and programme details are available from the box office on +44 (0)20 7960 4201.

EVENTS

Changing the Guard

The Changing the Guard is a must see event for any visitor to London. The Queens’ Guard is changed at 1130 inside the gates of Buckingham Palace and can be viewed from outside.

The 40-minute ceremony takes place daily between April and July and on alternate days for the remainder of the year. The Queen’s Life Guard at Horse Guards, Whitehall offers a closer look at the pageantry and is changed daily throughout the year at 1100 Mon-Sat and 1000 on Sun.

All Hallows by the Tower

Byward St, EC3
In 1666 the Great Fire of London started in Pudding Lane, a few hundred yards from the All Hallows by the Tower church. However All Hallows survived until 1940 when a Second World War bomb destroyed all but the tower and walls. However, the late Queen Mother laid a new foundation stone in 1948 and she attended the re-dedication service some nine years later. All Hallows and its Crypt Museum, Bookstall and Brass Rubbing Centre is a working church open daily. Admission free but a donation is requested for audio tour.

Ceremony of The Keys

This 700 year old ceremony of the locking of the main gates of the Tower of London is carried out every night of the year at 2150 by the Chief Yeoman Warder of the Tower accompanied by an escort of Guards.

Passes are essential to attend the ceremony and can be obtained free of charge upon written application to: The Ceremony of the Keys, HM Tower of London, London EC3N 4AB. (No more than seven passes per applicant). Please quote name, date required, number of people, as many alternative dates as possible and enclose a stamped, addressed envelope. (If applying from overseas, include ‘International Reply Coupons’ to cover return airmail.)

Dance for Visually Impaired

Royal Opera House, WC2
These weekly classes have been taking place at the Royal Opera House for many years. Classes are free but must be booked in advance. Telephone +44 (0)20 7212 9410 or visit www.royalopera.org for more information.

Nike Town Runs

Nike Town, Oxford Circus, W1C
Tuesdays at 1815
For anyone willing to run after work, meet in front of the Nike Town shop for a warm up and then depart for runs of different lengths – two three-mile – two five-mile and one eight-mile – led by instructors.

Telephone +44 (0)20 7612 0800 for further details.

Pay What You Can

Tricycle Theatre, Kilburn High Rd, NW6
The Tricycle Theatre runs Pay What You Can sessions. There are 30-50 tickets available in person on the day of performance, sponsored by Loot.

RSA Open House

The Royal Society of Arts operates an Open House scheme every first Sunday of the month. Within strolling distance of Trafalgar Square, the Grade I building was designed especially for the Society by Robert Adam in the early 1770s. Behind its Georgian façade lie many unexpected delights of both traditional and contemporary architecture.

South Bank Free Events

Free events and exhibitions take place almost every day of the year on London’s South Bank and include National Theatre evening foyer concerts, Royal Festival Hall lunchtime jazz and foyer exhibitions, and Coin Street’s summer festivals.

MUSEUMS

British Museum

One of the world’s greatest museums. Highlights include famous antiquities such as the Rosetta stone.

Imperial War Museum

Learn about the conflict on the Home Front and on the Front Line, from the two World Wars through to the Falklands and Bosnia.

Museum of London

Discover over 2000 years of the capital’s history from prehistoric to modern times.

National Maritime Museum

See Oceans of Discovery, from Cook to Cousteau.

Natural History Museum

Explore hundreds of exciting, interactive exhibits including Dinosaurs, Creepy-Crawlies, Human Biology, Ecology and Mammals.

Queen’s House

Inigo Jones’s Palladian-style villa in Greenwich.

Royal Air Force Museum

A world class collection of over 80 aircraft, aviation memorabilia and artefacts. Don’t miss the simulator ride, hands on section and interactive sound and light show too.

Royal Observatory

Home of the Meridien Line in Greenwich and a Christopher Wren building.

Science Museum

See, touch and experience the major scientific advances of the last 300 years at the largest Museum of its kind in the world.

Theatre Museum

Explore imaginative exhibitions, workshops and events based on the world’s most exciting performing arts collections, celebrate performance in Britain.

Victoria & Albert Museum

These 15 state-of-the-art galleries feature interactive exhibits and audio visual displays exploring the story of British art and design from the tudor age to the Victorian era.

Most of London’s historic churches, for example, St Brides in Fleet Street, the model for the classic wedding cake and St Martin-in-the-Fields in Trafalgar Square charge no admission. St Martin’s also organises free lunchtime concerts. Also, London’s second cathedral, Southwark Cathedral, is well worth a visit to see the burial place of the founder of Havard.

St Bartholomew-the-Great in Smithfield is one of London’s oldest churches. Dating from the twelfth century, London’s history is inextricably linked with the church and surrounding area. It was used more recently to film scenes in Shakespeare in Love.

ARCHITECTURE

Cemeteries

Cemeteries provide a who’s who to London’s past as well as a fascinating wander through Victorian memorial sculpture. Kensal Green is the burial place of Thackeray and Trollope while Highgate Cemetery * is the resting place of Karl Marx and George Eliot. Also check out Abney Park, West Norwood and Nunhead cemeteries.

The Law

See the architecture, sense the tradition and picture the scenes from history in the Royal Courts of Justice, the Central Criminal Court (Old Bailey) and the civic government offices of the Guildhall.

Royal Society of Arts

The Royal Society of Arts is another architectural gem and has recently opened its doors to the public. On the first Sunday of every month, from 1000-1300, visitors can roam the Adam Brothers’ historic rooms, dating back to the 1770s – for free, of course.

Royal Opera House

The public rooms at the Royal Opera House are free from 1000-1530 every day. Performances are charged for but a visit just to see the building’s grandiose architecture is well worth it. Somerset House’s Nelson Stair, Seaman’s Waiting Hall and interpretation gallery can all be seen for free. Charges a token £1.

ATTRACTIONS

Bank of England Museum

Threadneedle Street, EC2
Tel +44 (0)20 7601 5545
The Bank of England Museum is situated within the Bank of England, in the heart of the historical City of London. The museum traces the origin of the Bank from its foundation by Royal Charter in 1694, through to the present day as the nations central bank. Visitors can learn the intricacies of bank note design, experience life as a dealer on the US Dollar/Sterling market and learn the history of many ancient bank notes and coins.

British Library

Euston Road, NW1
Tel: +44(0)20 7412 7332
The British Library houses one of the greatest collections of the written word in the world. See world famous items like the Lindisfarne Gospels, the Gutenberg Bible, Shakespeare’s First Folio of 1623, King John’s Magna Carta, Handel’s Messiah and original Beatles’ manuscripts.

John Soane’s Museum

13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2
Tel +44 (0)20 7405 2107
Sir John Soane was the architect of the Bank of England and his own home, now known as the Sir John Soane Museum, as well as Dulwich Picture Gallery, England’s first portrait gallery. The Soane Museum in Lincoln’s Inn Fields is now an amazing museum dedicated to his works and incredible collections.

Kenwood House

Hampstead Lane, NW3
Tel +44 (0)20 8348 1286
Kenwood House is one of the finest examples of the work of architect Robert Adam. This stunning villa contains a spectacular library and fine neo-classical furniture. It also holds the most important private collection of paintings ever given to the nation. Scenes from the film Notting Hill were staged here.

Leighton House

Holland Park Road, W14
Tel +44 (0)20 7602 3316
Leighton House is home of classical painter, Lord Leighton. The dazzling gilt mosaics and Oriental tiles of the Arab Hall evoke the world of the Arabian Nights.

Museum of Childhood at Bethnal Green

Cambridge Heath Road, E2
Tel +44 (0)20 7942 2000
The Museum of Childhood is a branch of the V&A Museum, housing one of the largest and oldest collections of childhood items in the world. The collections span the ages, from 16th century swaddling bands to 21st century construction kits. Highlights include toys and games from around the world such as coin-operated mechanical toys and a fine collection of children’s costume. The museum also operates a varied activities programme for children every weekend and during school holidays.

National Army Museum
Royal Hospital Road, SW3
Tel +44 (0)20 7730 0717
The National Army Museum tells the story of the British soldier in peace and war, through five centuries. You can learn why the British soldier wore his red coat and why, for hundreds of years, the weapons were so inaccurate it didn’t matter if the enemy could see where you were! The archers of Agincourt and modern peacekeepers are all featured and you can experience what it was like to be bombarded in a First World War trench and see the meagre wartime rations.

Royal Academy of Arts: The John Madejski Fine Rooms
Burlington House, Piccadilly, W1
Tel: +44 (0)20 7300 8000
Home to the Academy’s permanent collection, these fully restored 18th century fine rooms now house many national treasures. Focusing predominantly on British art and architecture from the 18th century to the present day, it includes works by renowned British painters such as Reynolds, Gainsborough, Turner and David Hockney. The rooms are open Tuesday-Fridays 1pm-4.30pm, Saturday-Sunday 10am- 6pm (closed Mondays).

St-Martin-in-the-Fields Church

Trafalgar Square, WC2
Tel +44 (0)20 7766 1100
This historic church, designed by James Gibbs and built in 1726, overlooks Trafalgar Square. Features include Cafe in the Crypt, a gift shop, art gallery and market in the courtyard. Candelit concerts take place from Thursday to Saturday, and there are lunchtime recitals Monday, Tuesday and Friday. All profits go to support the work of the church, with its particular ministry to the homeless.

The church crypt is also home to the London Brass Rubbing Centre, which offers a unique opportunity for all the family to make pictures, with this simple technique, of Britain’s royalty, medieval and Tudor characters and unusual Celtic designs.

The National Archives

Kew, TW9
Tel +44 (0)20 8876 3444
The National Archives of England, Wales and the United Kingdom holds original records created or acquired by central government and the central courts of law from the 11thC to the present day. Includes the Domesday Book, illuminated medieval manuscripts, Bligh’s account of the mutiny on HMS Bounty, Guy Fawkes’s confessions, Jane Austen’s will, Shakespeare’s will and the instrument of abdication signed by King Edward VIII.

SPECIALIST COLLECTIONS

Museum of Childhood at Bethnal Green

The Museum of Childhood is a branch of the Victoria and Albert Museum and contains a superb collection of dolls, toys, dolls’ houses, children’s costumes and nursery antiques – with free admission for all!

Bank of England Museum

The Bank of England Museum illustrates the history of one of the world’s most famous banks, tracing the history of the Bank from its foundation by Royal Charter in 1694 to its role today as the nation’s central bank.

Geffrye Museum

The Geffrye Museum displays domestic interiors from the 1600s to the present day, in a series of period rooms. Enjoy the walled herb garden and collections of furniture, paintings and decorative art, reflecting the tastes and styles of the urban middle classes.

National Army Museum

Leanr about the history of the British soldier, in peace and war, through five centuries, at the National Army Museum. There are extensive displays on the two world wars and unrivalled collections relating to the Victorian period and the Battle of Waterloo.

Royal Academy of Arts: The John Madejski Fine Rooms
Home to the Academy’s permanent collection, these fully restored 18th century fine rooms now house many national treasures. Focusing predominantly on British art and architecture from the 18th century to the present day, it includes works by renowned British painters such as Reynolds, Gainsborough, Turner and David Hockney. The rooms are open Tuesday-Fridays 1pm-4.30pm, Saturday-Sunday 10am- 6pm (closed Mondays).

Wallace Collection

The Wallace Collection is an impressive collection of European paintings, miniatures and sculpture. The twenty eight rooms present collections of French 18th century painting, furniture and porcelain together with paintings by Titian, Canaletto, Rembrandt and Gainsborough.

More free collections

  • Age Exchange Reminiscence Centre
  • Baden Powell House
  • Bank of England Museum
  • Boston Manor House
  • Bruce Castle Museum
  • Burgh House
  • Church Farmhouse Museum
  • Contemporary Applied Arts
  • Cuming Museum
  • Forty Hall Museum
  • Grange Museum
  • Guards Chapel
  • Gunnersbury Park Museum
  • Hall Place
  • Harrow Museum & Heritage Centre
  • Heathrow Airport Visitor Centre
  • Hogarth’s House
  • Horniman Museum
  • Kelmscott House
  • Little Holland House
  • Livesey Museum
  • London Brass Rubbing Centre
  • London Silver Vaults
  • Museum of Garden History
  • Namco Station
  • North Woolwich Old Station Museum
  • Photographers’ Gallery
  • Pitshanger Manor Museum
  • Prince Henry’s Room
  • Pumphouse Educational Museum
  • Ragged School Museum
  • Royal Hospital Chelsea
  • Sir John Soane’s Museum
  • Somerset House
  • Orleans House
  • William Morris Gallery





Tube Rules

5 09 2005

So you’re new to The Underground. Here is some material to make you look like a veteran.

Underground Etiquette

  • Do NOT read over people’s shoulders: It may be something fascinating but get your own paper and if you think they cannot tell, you might be severely retarded. If you really want to do this, pick a decent tube line. The District Line goes into Temple and the Central Line goes into Chancery Lane. You can read lots of barristers’ briefs which is a breach of somek nid of HIPAA violation I am sure. So infringe away!
  • When to give up your seat: every man/woman/other for himself please. It is only polite to give up your seat on a crowded train to anyone who looks in greater need than yourself. But take heed in doing so that you do not detect any infirmity where none exists or you will open yourself to accusations of sexism, ageism or some other form of condescension to which people are SO attuned today. I always offer my seat to pregnant people and seniors.
  • Do NOT stand so close to me: This is impossible in rush hour. People are all pressing up against each other. Do not let the bouncy and exciting effects of the tube cause you an embarrassment. Use strategic placement of your briefcase.
  • Look BEFORE you sit: chewing gum, crisps, old burger bits, spilt drinks, lost children. Give it a glance and brush before you sit. I have only one word for you: Purell. Never leave home without it.
  • Let passengers off the train FIRST before you get on: when the doors of a bus, tube or train open, you must of course allow time for on board passengers to disembark. The correct allotment is one (1) millisecond. Then board quickly and efficiently, using as much force as phsyically necessary while quietly muttering a few choice “fuck”s
  • Try not to carry massive rucksacks: Massive is if you look like you strapped a minivan to your back
  • Stand clear of closing doors: insert your favorite horror story here. Everyone has managed to “lose” the retarded child in the jaws of the Tube. Then again, if that kid wasn’t smart enough to know about the closing doors, should he really be permitted to grow old to die? I think of this as a charitable act.
  • Mind the Gap. You have heard this ad infinitum et nauseam. There is a variable gap (for rats) between the gap between the train and platform. Do not fall into the gap. Those rats: who knows where you have been?
  • Stand clear of the droning bores. If you can smell the cheap whiskey or, worse, Drakkar Noir, pretend you do not speak the English language. Most of us in America do not so there is no need to pretend.
  • Do NOT talk loudly on the tube: This should be made illegal, same as keeping your feet off the seats.
  • Your bags and suitcases are not entitled to their own seats. Unless you bought each of them a ticket. Tourists!
  • Do NOT throw up on the tube.
  • Stand on the right when traveling on escalators. Let those who want to pass shuttle ahead at tremendous rates and make their Strabucks run.
  • Shut your legs: this is for men only who sit with their legs as wide apart as possible to encroaching on all of the space around them.
  • Snogging on the Tube: kiss all you want but do NOT make those nasty slurpy noises. Of course, it would be quite rude to shag someone on the Tube as well but you knew that.
  • Coughing and sneezing spread disease. This is not a rule but just a fascinating piece of information that is just being made available as very few actually know about this fun fact.
  • Do not fall asleep.
  • How to get a seat: be merciless. Tube virgins tend to watch empty carriage after empty carriage slide past and then the one that pulls up in front of them is a liquid mass of near humanity. Then, getting on the train. Rapidly. The sooner you get aboard, the higher your chance of getting a seat.
  • Trust no one.
  • You are not invisible all of the time. There are many times when you are, e.g., when youa are pregnant, when you are old, when you are completely sloshed and neither pregnant nor old but feel like both and would murder someone for a seat because your head is killing you, and when you are being spoken to by a child or someone who thinks he is a child. This is opposed to nose-pickers whom you WISH deeply would become invisible. Then they check the fruits of their quest. Why are you looking at it? What did you expect you would fine in those nares? A Macy’s gift card?
  • The Art of Balance: this is so key. If you are carrying a heavy bag, it is a must to stand with this between your legs. Sometimes on really really crowded trains you may find that you are not holding on to the famous dangly balls and being held upright purely by the weight of your fellow travelers (now friends).
  • Fainters wil be discovered… eventually! Fainting does not insure that you will be granted a seat. If you do feel faint, cool yourself by blowing onto your forehead. Also, if you faint during rush hour you will be propper up by everyone else so this won’t be discovered until lunch hour so have your Wheaties daily.
  • Avoid eye contact. Do not look at anyone. Fiddle with your watch. File your nails. Read the ads. The reason to avoid eye contact is to avoid peasants. The minute you make eye contact with a peasant, he or she will insist on talking to you and you will become the center of attention on the carriage because you may accidentally end up talking to the peasant and as we all know… talking on the tube is strictly forbidden.
  • Barriers are barriers: you really need a ticket to get past the ticket barriers. That is the original and unique plan.
  • Do not blow your nose
  • Not all tourists are annoying (only most of them)
  • If at first your ticket doesn’t work, do NOT try again. I hat ebeing behind the multiple card swiper who, instead of seeking assistance, will keep reswiping while a small riot erupts behind her. The gate is a computer and it will never change its mind. Talk to a “helpful” guard who will look at your ticket and if the date and everything else isokay, will open a special gate to let you through.
  • Staring at seats can give you “Magic Eye”
  • You could meet your future partner!
  • How to be first on the Tube: Always stand at the edge of the platform behind the line where the MIND THE GAP is painted. Nine times out of ten, the doors stop exactly in front of it and you will be the first on. If there is no MIND THE GAP on your part of the platform, look for wear and tear where the platform is faded. This is really excellent advice.
  • When to talk on the tube: this is not a trick question but I was testing you. It is just about marginally fair enough if you are on the tube with someone else you know but strangers, that is not a wise move. The only permissible reason would be to ask if they have finished their copy of Metro. Just because it is sitting their in their lap does not give you license to reach over and touch them inappropriately.

HOW TO GET A SEAT ON THE TUBE

  • First board your train: When the train comes in, obviously you hurl yourself onto it in the hope of winning one of the available seats. But if there aren’t any, or if someone else beats you to it through superior Pre-Train Arrival platform/sliding door alignment, here’s what you do. Firstly, go and stand in the middle of the lines of seats rather than hanging around by the door. Otherwise lots of other people will also pile onto the train at the last minute, stand by the seats and grab them when they become available.
  • Stand next to people who look as if they are about to get off: This may sound impossible but in fact you have lots of clues. Look at what people are wearing. People wearing suits are likely to get off at places where lawyers and City folk hang out eg Temple, Chancery Lane, Bank and Liverpool Street. Tourists will get off at big sightseeing stations (South Kensington, Tower Hill, St Paul’s) and tourists with rucksacks will get off at major train stations such as Victoria and Kings Cross.
  • Watch for Pre-Departure Shuffling – PDSSeated passengers will start to fidget around shortly before they rise from their seat and get off the train – closing their book and putting it in their bag, folding their newspaper, looking to see where they have put their umbrella etc. Generally, they will only start to do PDS one stop before they get off, to avoid giving wrong signals to lurking Seat-Hunters.
  • Win Your Seat Once you’ve identified your imminently departing Seated Passenger, you have to compete for the seat with other lurking Seat-Hunters. Not an easy business when there are several of you and you’ve all identified the Pre-Departure Shuffling. Some tube etiquette should be observed – ie if you are closest to the Imminent Departing Passenger, you have the greatest claim on their seat.

It’s really not at all complicated to use the London Underground or the Docklands Light Rail. The DLR is just like any other Tube line except that it’s above ground. For such a complex system moving millions of people a day, the Underground is quite painless and a joy to master.

TAKE YOUR TIME, PAY ATTENTION, MIND THE GAP

Just give yourself however much time you need to make sense of the maps, arrows, instructions, signs and reader boards. This is essential. These are all brilliantly simple; use them. Follow the signs and you’ll get anywhere you want.

* Pick up the small free Tube map at your first station.

* Study the map above the seats as you travel.

* Watch the changing signs onboard about what the next stop is.

* Look at the station name printed repeatedly on the wall or on signs as you come into a station.

* Listen to the soothing voice telling you which station is next (bonus: you learn the locals’ pronunciation).

* Stop and study the map on the wall in the station if you need to. Step to the side and get your bearings, don’t just go with the crowd.

* When exiting a train follow the Way Out signs to get off the platform, then watch for signs to your above-ground destination or connection.

Changes in stations are not hard although it may involve 5 or more minutes of walking through mazes, riding escalators, taking huge lifts, etc. The signing and maps for the London Underground (including DLR) are brilliant but you have to follow them carefully. For visitor, this can add to your travel time by quite a bit. (It does for me.) Take this into account as you plan your travel time.

Be careful of the space between the car and the platform (the gap).

THE RIGHT PLATFORM / CATCHING THE RIGHT TRAIN

You can tell if you’re on the right platform by looking at the name of the destination on the reader board or on the front of the approaching train.

There are usually two destinations, one at each end of a line. Some lines, including the DLR, split at one point and you have a choice of two destinations in the same direction. The destination is the end of the line for that particular train. Some quit before your desired station. Check for the end stations on whatever line you intend to ride and check for the end stop on individual trains.

You may be on the wrong platform heading the wrong way; you can tell by the destination in the train window or by the reader board that is constantly changing. The reader board tells you which trains are coming and the number of minutes before each train is due.

Some platforms have trains on each side going different directions. You can quickly correct a mistake at those stations. At others, though, you may have to take a long trek up stairs and across to the other side. Getting your bearings first can pay off.

NORTH IS UP, WEST IS LEFT

Signs are for westbound, southbound, etc. It’s not hard to master but you have to know your directions (some people don’t/have never had to learn). A simple memory mantra should help. I suggest either North is Always Up or West is Left.

When looking at a Tube map (or any map, for that matter), north is always up, south is down, east is right and west is left.

COURTESY / CUSTOM

When you clear the doorway of the carriage either coming or going, keep moving! Don’t stop and clog things up. Move quickly, don’t dawdle. Be decisive. You’re either getting on/off or you’re not. These trains don’t wait and neither do the other passengers.

On escalators, stand on the right so people can pass you on the left because they will. Straight up 100 steps!

Flash photography is not allowed in the Underground but there is lots of very impressive art that is worth standing as still as possible and taking an available-light photo.

IF YOUR PARTY IS SEPARATED

This works for me: If we get separated, we all go to the very next stop and regroup there. The ones on the train get off at the first stop and wait; the ones left behind catch the next train and get off at the first stop. Nobody goes beyond the next stop until you find each other.





Attraction London

4 09 2005

The city is home to countless historical and modern attractions, from the London Eye to the National Gallery and Tower of London. With free admission into many of these attractions, now is as good a time as any to explore them for yourself and soak up some culture. The top ten (10) is based on 2004 visitor numbers.

1. National Gallery

The National Gallery houses one of the greatest collections of European painting in the world. With paintings ranging from 1250 to 1900, the collection includes work by Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, Rembrandt, Gainsborough, Turner, Cezanne and Van Gogh.

2. British Museum

The imposing British Museum exhibits the works of man from prehistoric to modern times with collections drawn from all around the world. Famous objects include the Rosetta Stone, sculptures from the Parthenon and the Portland Vase.

3. Tate Modern

The impressive Tate Modern is Britain’s national museum of modern art. Housed in the former Bankside Power Station on the banks of the River Thames, the gallery displays major works by Matisse and Picasso as well as contemporary work, exhibitions and installations.

4. The London Eye

The British Airways London Eye forms a major feature of London’s skyline. It is the world’s highest observation wheel and offers passengers spectacular views of over 55 of London’s most famous landmarks in just 30 minutes.

5. Natural History Museum

As well as the permanent dinosaur exhibition, the gallery boasts a collection of the biggest, tallest and rarest animals in the world. Don’t miss the life size model of the Blue Whale, the 40 million year old spider, the earthquake simulator and an elephant bird egg.

6. Science Museum

See, touch and experience the major scientific advances of the last 300 years at the largest museum of its kind in the world. With over 40 galleries and 2000 hands on exhibits, step into the future in the Wellcome Wing, visit the IMAX cinema and virtual reality simulator.

7. The Tower of London

Take a free guided tour with one of the Yeoman Warders around one of the most famous fortified buildings in the world. Discover its 900 year history as a royal palace and fortress, prison and place of execution, mint, arsenal, menagerie and jewel house.

8. The Victoria & Albert Museum

The V&A celebrates all things art and design, and is home to 3000 years worth of amazing artefacts from many of the world’s richest cultures. See their amazing collection of ceramics, furniture, fashion, glass, jewellery, photographs, sculpture, textiles and paintings.

9. The National Portrait Gallery

The gallery features portraits in all mediums depicting well known British people. In addition to historical portraits, it exhibits a rapidly changing collection of contemporary work with exhibitions by individual artists, and hosts the annual BP Portrait Prize competition.

10. National Maritime Museum

This is the largest maritime museum in the world with a collection of over two million objects relating to seafaring. Now a World Heritage Site, the historic landscape includes the 17th century Queen’s House and the home of the Prime Meridian at the Royal Observatory.





Tube Top

2 09 2005

‘The London Underground, or ‘the Tube’ as it is universally known to Londoners, is normally the quickest and easiest way of getting around London with 275 stations conveniently dotted across the city (63 in central London), you are never far from a Tube station. Most people in London use the Tube.’
London is served by 12 Tube lines. Underground trains on all lines run every few minutes between 5.30 until 00:30 Monday to Saturday, and between 7.30 – 23.30 on Sundays. You can get a map for the entire Underground system free of charge from all train station ticket offices. No smoking is allowed on the Underground, either on trains or stations themselves. Smoking is also not allowed on buses.

Trains and platforms are described as Eastbound, Westbound, Northbound or Southbound depending on the direction of the line. The front of the train, and the platform indicator, will show the ultimate destination of the train – usually, but not always, the last station on the line.

If the station you are travelling to is not on the same line as the one where you start your journey, you need to change trains at any stations where two lines meet. For some journeys you may need to change lines twice. Each line has its own unique colour, so you can easily follow them on maps and signs throughout the system.

How to act like a local

  • Do not bring more luggage than you can safely carry. Unlike mainline railways, the Tube does not have porters. Staff are trained to help you but carrying excess luggage is not one of their duties.
  • If you are travelling with a backpack – take it off and stand over it on the floor of the carriage. This takes up less room.
  • The Tube can get very busy, especially during the morning and evening rush hours. Avoid travelling at those times if possible.
  • Londoners stand on the right on the escalators at all times. This allows those in a hurry to get past.
  • Stand to one side of walkways and platforms when looking at maps. You are on holiday but the locals are still working and again, always in a hurry. Better still, ask staff for directions.
  • Allow passengers off the train before you board. This is not just the British being polite but is the safest and quickest way for a train to unload and load passengers.
  • Stand behind the yellow line on platforms. This is for your safety as trains pull in and out.
  • The Tube can get very hot during the summer months. It does not yet have airconditioning. Carry lots of water during hot weather.
  • The Tube is safe but customers and visitors to London should practice some basic personal security particularly at large stations where the tube connects with mainline rail services. Keep your bags with you at all times.
    Beware that pickpockets and thieves operate at some larger stations.
  • Do not give your used tickets to touts. They are used to buy drugs.
  • Use only the black cabs from the taxi rank in front of the station.
  • Enjoy the railway! The Tube is the oldest underground in the world and is an attraction all on its own. It will take you to all the places in London you will ever want to see.

London is supported by five main airports, from the UK’s main gateway at London Heathrow , to the convenience of London City Airport in the Docklands. These two airports are directly served by the Tube.
If you are travelling from/to other London Airports (Gatwick, Luton or Stansted), visit London Airports
If you are travelling from Gatwick, visit Gatwick Express
If you are travelling from Heathrow, visit Heathrow Express
If you are travelling from Stansted, visit Stansted Express

Travelling to/from Heathrow Airport?
The Piccadilly line connects Heathrow Airport to central London and the rest of the Tube system. It is the cheapest way to central London. There are trains every few minutes from approximately 0500 (0550 Sundays) to 2345 (2250 Sundays). A single ticket into central London (Zone 1) costs GBP3.80. Journey time to Piccadilly Circus is about 50 minutes. There are two underground stations at Heathrow Airport, serving Terminal 1-3 and Terminal 4.
Through September 2006, Heathrow T4 station will be closed and so a special repalcement bus will take passengers to/from Hatton cross station. This is to allow construction of the Piccadilly Line extension to the new Heathrow Terminal 5 .

Travelling to/from London City Airport?
London City Airport (LCY) is situated approximately 6 miles (9.5km) east of Central London and just 3 miles (4.8km) from Canary Wharf.
Catch a Jubilee Line Tube or Docklands Light Railway service to Canning Town or Canary Wharf and catch an Airport Shuttlebus.

If you are travelling to London for the first time, it will be easier for you if you pre-plan your first Tube journey before arriving in the city. This can be done by using the Tube map. Alternatively, to find your fastest, most convenient route using the Tube and all forms of public transport in London, as well as easy access to National Rail stations, go to Journeyplanner. Just type in where you want to begin your journey and your destination and we will do the rest.
The Bus and Tube Map indicating top tourist attractions is useful guide to have by your side when you are moving around central London.

When travelling up or down an escalator, stand on the right hand side so anyone who is in a hurry and wants to walk is free to do so on the left.
Stand on the right hand side
A surprising number of accidents happen on the escalators. Keep yourself safe by : -

  • never running up or down
  • standing at least two steps away from the person in front,
  • holding on to the rail
  • watching out for long items of clothing that might catch as you get off.

Entering a platform

  • You can help prevent fellow passengers bunching up behind you if you move along the platform, rather than stand by the entrance. Also, you will be more likely to find space on the train when it arrives.
  • Keep an eye, and hand, on your luggage
  • Keep your luggage safe by keeping it with you at all times. Unattended luggage will cause a security alert, which means you – and everyone else – may have to leave the station immediately.
  • Trains come in at speed so you should always stand behind the yellow line. Also, don’t run for a train; it increases your chance of having an accident. There’s no need to rush because another train will arrive soon.
  • If you have been drinking, you should be especially careful. Alcohol causes the most accidents on the Tube.
  • Safety has been improved for all Tube passengers with CCTV cameras in most stations and more staff on hand to help.

Help Point

Many platforms have electronic information displays to tell you when the next Tube will arrive. Listen out for announcements, they may be of use to you. Staff are also available to help with any questions you may have. Most platforms also have Help Points. Press the green button to report an emergency and the blue button for general queries. At some stations the Help Point also has a red fire alarm that you should use if you spot a fire.

Please let passengers off the train first
On the Tube, the etiquette is to let all passengers get off the carriage before you get on. It means that you and everyone else can get on and off faster.
Mind the Gap between the train and the platform
Many platforms are curved. This means that there is often a gap between the train and the platform. Please be careful to look out for any gap when you get on and off the train.

Once on board
The best way to find a free seat is to move down the carriage and stand where the seats are. Here you have a better chance of getting a seat when someone leaves and you don’t have to move every time people get on or off the train.

Mind the doors
Moving down the carriage makes it easier for everyone to get on and off – and helps avoid obstructing the doors when they close. Standing away from the doors also means you won’t get squashed or moved around so much. However, sometimes it’s hard to stand further down the carriage, so, for your own safety, please hold on to the rails and avoid leaning against the doors.

Seats
If you are seated and see an elderly, pregnant or disabled person, please offer them your seat? and it goes without saying, no one is allowed to put their feet on seats or stick gum to them.

Alarms!
There’s an alarm in every carriage for emergencies. Pulling the alarm will alert the train operator that there’s a problem on the train. If you wait until the train enters the station before pulling it, help will be able to get to you much faster.

Litter
Please help keep the Tube free of litter. For security reasons there are no litter bins on Tube stations below ground – you should take all your litter with you and place it in a litter point, available at some stations, or in a bin outside.

Consider other travellers
The Tube is for everybody, so please be considerate towards your fellow passengers. Strong smelling food and loud music, even on personal stereos, should be avoided because others may not appreciate them as much as you

Have your ticket ready
Fumbling around for your ticket at the gates can hold up your fellow travellers. So remember to have it ready as you leave the train or when you are on the escalator.

Keep your ticket…
Ticket “touts” operate at some stations. Don’t give them your ticket; the money they make can contribute to drug-related crime, and some ticket touts threaten our staff and passengers.

Have tickets ready as you leave the train … and your mobile phone Because it is not possible to get a signal on most of the Tube, many people make mobile calls as they leave the station. Consequently thefts are more likely to occur at this time. Protect yourself and your mobile by waiting a few minutes, until you are away from the station, before making a call. If you lose anything on your journey ask a member of staff or fax the lost property office on 0207 918 1028 or completing a form on line at: www.tfl.gov.uk.

You will never travel alone with your new best friend – the Transport for London (TfL) Travelcard. Even if you aren’t used to using public transportation, you’ll be amazed how easy it is, and how many Londoners do it every day.

Some might need single (one journey) tickets. They can be bought at ticket machines or from a person behind a window at tube stations – let’s say you’re using a machine. The readout at the top of the screen will tell you if it’s a cash only machine, whether or not change is given, or if you can use credit cards as well as cash. You select whether you are an adult or child, then your final destination station, insert money, and voila – a ticket. If you’re not sure how to use the machines, watch others do so. If this doesn’t work for you, then queue at the window and ask the staff member – they really are quite knowledgeable.

You can also buy Travelcards from the machines, although TfL are making rumbling noises about no longer issuing a seven day Travelcard (hrmph). But for now, one day and three day cards can be bought – again, it’s a matter of selecting what you want and paying for it, and if you don’t see what you like available at the machine, you’ll need to queue.

Now, Travelcards. One day (GBP 4.70 for zones 1 and 2), three day (GBP 15.00, same zones) and seven day (GBP 21.00, same zones) adult Travelcards are all available and require no photocard! You’ll be given a heavy card ticket – you can get a wallet from the window – and you’ll need it to enter and exit the Underground system.

There are narrow gates at the entrance to tube stations, and you can see how the Travelcard slips in a slot on the gate front – make sure you take your card before going through the gates. You’ll need to do the same procedure to exit the stations – and at King’s Cross you might need to exit and re-enter if you’re changing from the Piccadilly line to the District and Circle lines.

Please have your ticket ready to pop in the gates, as those who stand in front of the exit fumbling for a Travelcard may not be popular. Also, if you’re with a group, please step to one side and don’t block the turnstiles – central London tube stations are busy places, and working people need to get on.

The ticket halls will usually have a very large map of the local area around the station – very useful for checking bus routes as well as which exit to use to continue your journey.

Travelcards are good for use on the bus, DLR and tube, and when you board a bus, simply flash your card at the driver. If you haven’t bought a Travelcard, many buses in central London are now Pay Before Boarding buses, and you’ll see yellow ticket machines at many stops – most do not give change! Single bus fares are 1.20, and no transfers are given – if you get on a Routemaster or bus where you pay the driver, your ticket is simply a receipt for fare paid, not for further travel. Buses are similar to tube trains, in that the blinds at the front and back give the final destination of the bus and well as some major stops or streets travelled along the way. The number 19 might say FINSBURY PARK Islington Tottenham Court Road Station Piccadilly Circus Hyde Park Corner BATTERSEA BRIDGE (south side) – it’s started at Finsbury Park station and will finish its journey at Battersea.

What’s this overground I hear people talking about? With a Travelcard, you can get on and off as many tube trains, buses and DLR trains as you wish, as well as use the overground (railway) trains that run within the zones stated on your card. There are plenty of commuter lines running in and out of London, from mainline stations like Victoria and Liverpool Street to smaller stations mostly in use Monday to Friday, like Cannon Street. They’re not all trains to the outer suburbs, either – places like Kentish Town, Wandsworth and Hackney (all in zone 2) have rail stations plus or minus tube access. The trains will be chockablock with people at rush hours, and if you want to avoid plenty of aggro, try not to travel at peak hours, as the mainline stations are full of people focused on one thing only – getting to that platform and standing in the spot directly in front of the opening doors.

Rail stations work the same as tube stations – ticket in the turnstile, then off you go. There should be enormous posters of train times in each station, and ticket offices should have pocket sized timetables of commonly used lines.

And that Oyster card? There has been much discussion here of the Oyster card – a smart card used to pay fares – like a Travelcard, but it just needs to be touched to a sensor at tube stations and on buses. Unless TfL have future plans they’re not letting us in on, most visitors won’t need to worry about Oyster cards for the moment, since they’re most commonly used for season tickets of a month or longer duration. They are easy to load with money, though, and you needn’t remove the card from its wallet to use it, which is a big plus. But for now, the papery Travelcard is what most visitors carry, and it should serve us well.

One more thing – some newsagents and smaller shops will sell tube tickets and Travelcards, if the queues are unbearable at stations. Look for the sign in the window.





Week in Wine

1 09 2005

Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignons
2002 Benziger Family Winery Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon : $19
2002 Blackstone Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon : $16
2002 Castle Rock Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon : $10
2002 Clos du Bois Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon : $17
2002 Martin Ray Angeline Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon : $10
2003 Michael Pozzan Winery Special Reserve Sonoma Cty Cab. Sauv. : $12
2002 Q Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon : $17
2002 Rodney Strong Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon : $19
2002 Sebastiani Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon : $17
2002 Trentadue Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon : $22
2001 Valley of the Moon Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon : $20

Whites
2004 Cousino-Macul Dona Isidora Maipo Riesling ($8)
2004 Dr. Loosen Dr. L Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Riesling ($10)
2004 Hope Estate Hunter Valley Verdelho ($10)
2004 Rancho Zabaco Dancing Bull California Sauvignon Blanc ($10)
2004 Redcliffe Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ($10)

Pinks
2004 Il Gufo Lodi Barbera Rosato ($10)
2004 Iron Horse Alexander Valley Rosato Di Sangiovese ($10)
2005 Little Penguin South Eastern Australia White Shiraz ($8)
2004 Paul Jaboulet Parallele 45 Cotes du Rhone Rosé ($10)
2004 Red Bicyclette Vin De Pays d’Oc Rosé ($10)